392 Route 42. KRESTENA.
size. The fording of the two arms of the river, which here forms an
island, takes nearly l)i hr.; and as in some places the water is over 3 ft.
deep a special guide is usually required, who must be brought from Zacha
(5 dr.). We ascend the opposite bank and in l'/4 hr. more reach Aspra
Spitia (p. 383), situated high up on the slope.
The route from Phanari leads to theW. along the slope, up and
down hill, across numerous gorges, and through fine groves of ar¬
butus, laurustinus, oaks, and other trees. The green valley of the
Alpheios, with the villages of Hagios Ioannes, Piri, etc., is always
in sight (p. 387). To the left of the track lie Zelechova and Vrestd,
to the right Phtelia, Nivitza, and Raphti; farther on are Longo, to
the left, and Platidna, to the right. In the 'Palsokastro' or 'Hellenik6'
above the last-named village, 4 hrs. from Andritsaena, are preserved
the interesting ruins of the ancient town of Mpion.
The first village on the direct route is Greka or Gremka, about
blfe hrs. from Andritsaena. Only a fragment of a carriage-road hence
to Olympia has been completed. After another dip the track de¬
scends through a picturesque valley to (2lfe hrs.) Krestena (300 ft.),
the largest place (1370 inhab.) in N. Triphylia, famous for its
wine. Night-quarters may be obtained from one of the inhabitants.
— About 3/i hr. to the N. of Krestena, beyond the village of Ma-
krysia (to the left), we reach the ferry over the Alpheios, about
33/4 M. to the W. of the confluence of the Kladeos. The ferrymen
are summoned by shouts of bdrka I bdrka! For each horse and rider
2-3 dr. are demanded; 1 dr. per head for a party. Olympia lies
8/4 M. above the point of landing; see R. 26.
43. From Andritssena to Phigalia.
About 5 hrs. are required for this excursion, exclusive of the stoppage
at the Temple of Bassae. — Besides the route described below (in parts
very bad), another and almost preferable path to the (2'/2 hrs.) Temple of
Bassae quits Andritssena at the Soleros Chapel and rounds the W. side of
the Analepsis Hill, with views of Krestena, Vervitza, and the Ionian Sea. —
To Diavolitzi via, the Temple of Bassae ca. 9 hrs. (comp. p. 384).
Andritsaena, see p. 391. — The route ascends to the left of the
Hill of St. Elias, along the well-watered and oak-covered heights
which connect the Lykaeon with the Palae6kastro group (p. 391).
The fresh and shady oak-woods make the path very agreeable. After
l'/2 hr. the vegetation becomes scantier and we reach the foot of a
fatiguing slope covered with loose stones and gravel, which is
ascended on mules in l/2 hr. and on foot in 3/4 hr. At the summit
of the pass (3775 ft.), where a cool mountain breeze is always blow¬
ing, an extensive panorama is unfolded. To the right rises the
ancient Kotilon, on the summit of which stood a temple with a
statue of Aphrodite, roofless even in Pausanias's time (the remains
of two temples have recently been excavated). To the S.W. glitters
the Ionian Sea. To the S. we see a section of the great Messenian
plain and on its verge the sharply-defined plateau of Mt, Ithome