158 Route 6. ARACHOVA.
Amphissa; its summits, Kidna and Vardousi, are the highest in modern
Greece and tower several hundred feet above Parnassos itself. To the
rJ.W. the most prominent points are Tymphrestos and Gita.
Instead of returning to Delphi or Arachova we may descend the
abrupt E. slope of Parnassos (only to be attempted on foot and
with a trustworthy guide) to (4-5 hrs.) the romantically and loftily
situated Convent of Jerusalem, the monks of which entertain the
traveller with plain but kindly hospitality. In about another hour
we reach Ddnlia, the railway station for which lies &lfe M. farther
on (see p. 159). -— Or we may descend from the top of Parnassos to
the W. by laborious paths, along the course of one of the feeders of
the Kephisos, reaching the upper valley of that river in b^fe hours.
Thence to Kato-Agdryani (p. 157), to the left, in 3/4 hr., or to Kato
Souodla (p. 157), .to the right, in 1/^ hour. From the latter village
we may proceed to the railway-station of Souvala (p. 196), 3 M. to
the N., or (better) we may follow the pleasant path, with a retro¬
spect of Gravia (p. 139), leading to (llfe hr.) Dadi (p. 196).
6. From Delphi to Livadia.
On horseback ca. 8V2 hrs. (mule, more generally used, ca. 10 hrs.);
the landlords at Kastri (p. 140) provide food and animals (bargain neces¬
sary; Paraskevas's nephew, bearing the same name, is recommended as
guide). To Arachova 2 hrs. (carriage-road; horse there and back 4 dr.),
Hagios Vlasis 4 hrs., Kapraena (Chaeronea) 40 min. (station 20 min. farther
on), Livadia l3/4 hr. The carriage-road is being extended, and when it
is finished it will be possible to drive from Delphi to Chaeronea station,
or vice versd (comp. below) in ca. 6 hrs. — If the route via, Davlia (ca.
IV2 hr. longer) is chosen a bargain should be made with the landlord at
Kastri about night- quarters at Davlia, as otherwise high charges may
This tour is frequently made in the opposite direction. In that case
instead of undertaking the fatiguing day's ride from Livadia travellers
may start from Athens in the morning and alight at Chaeronea station,
whence an easy ride brings them to Davlia (2'/2 hrs.; horses or mules
must be ordered from Kastri by telegram the day before); Delphi (7 hrs.)
is reached the next afternoon (comp. above). Provisions for both days
and travelling rugs for the night must be brought. — Carriage-road from
Bralo to Delphi, see p. 139.
The road to Arachova passes the Logari (p. 151) and immed¬
iately afterwards turns the corner of a cliff behind which Delphi
disappears. To the right are the remains of a sepulchral monument
in the shape of a tower. The slope is dotted with subterranean
tombs and fragments of sarcophagi. Farther on lie a number of
mills, for all of which a tributary of the Pleistos (p. 141) supplies
the motive power. The valley is clothed with olive-trees, and on
the slopes are vineyards which yield excellent wine. The road
gradually ascends, skirts the foot of the Petritis (perhaps the ancient
Katopteuterios), and reaches (2 hrs. from Delphi) the large and
town-like village of Arachova (3090 ft.), where tolerable food and
lodging may be found in the Xenodochion. The inhabitants,
about 3220 in numbejr, are._a sturdy country-people; the men are