Equipment. I. PRACTICAL HINTS.
event of the traveller ending his tour at a distance from the ago-
giat's home. In spite of the above stipulations, most travellers pay
the modest bills for the food of the agogiat in addition. The horses
are generally docile, sure-footed, and possessed of great powers of
endurance. They are not as a rule accustomed to any other gait
than a rapid walk, but they show a surprising capacity for climb¬
ing steep mountain-paths. The saddle consists of a wooden frame
(samdri) covered with rugs (roucha) which the agogiat is bound
to produce; the stirrups (scala) consist of nooses in a rope; and a
rope often takes the place of leathern bridle-reins. Most travellers
soon get used to this riding-gear, and many, especially for long
journeys, prefer the samari to the poor specimen of an English
saddle (sella) which is often the only substitute. Sitting sideways
in the samari, as the natives often do, is recommended for a change,
and is quite easy with a walking horse. Luggage is much more
easily transported on a native saddle than on an English one.
Short excursions, on which the traveller returns to the start¬
ing-point in 2-3 days, should be made with the same agogiat, as
better terms may then be made for the hire of the horses. In longer
journeys, however, it is better to change the agogiat every 2-3 days,
which can be done only at places of some size, as the agogiats are
seldom competent guides except in the vicinity of their homes.
This practice also obviates the necessity of paying for days of rest,
while the frequent change of horses makes forced marches, should
such be desirable, more practicable.
Distances are stated in this Handbook in terms of the time taken to
traverse them on horseback, except where it is otherwise noted (comp.
p. vi). Pedestrian Expeditions of a day or more are practically impos¬
sible, owing to the climate, the difficulty of obtaining food and shelter,
and the badness of the roads. But shorter excursions on foot, especially
in the neighbourhood of Athens, may be very conveniently made. Tra¬
vellers should never quit the main roads without a guide, partly on account
of the savage dogs (see p. xviii), partly on account of the entire absence
of guide-posts. — On frequented roads the traveller may sometimes, in¬
stead of a larger carriage, hire a Sousta, a two-wheeled cart with springs.
Soustae cost about '/3 less than carriages and are little inferior in point
Equipment. For Athens, Corfu, and all places reached by
railway, the traveller in Greece need not make any other prepara¬
tions than for a tour in Italy. Fot tours in the interior he should
provide himself with a suit of grey tweed, such as is used by sports¬
men at home, and an overcoat of some moderately thick or water¬
proof material. The tailor should be instructed to see that the seams
are sewn with particular care and that the buttons are well fastened
on, as repairs are expensive and cause great delay. Riding-breeches
are highly desirable, with puttees or leggings; but if ordinary
trousers are worn buttons for riding-straps should not be forgotten.
Woollen underclothing is necessary as a preventive of chills (comp.
p. xxvii), and it is prudent to wear a woollen vest at night. Flannel
Baedekeb's Greece. 4th Edit. b