I. PRACTICAL HINTS.
first freshness and in their original form, — not, as is almost uni¬
versally the case in Italy, in the copies and adaptations of the Ro¬
man period. Another important element in the enjoyment of a
visit to Greece is some capacity for sympathetic appreciation of
southern scenery, with its bare but nobly formed and clearly cut
mountains, its deep-blue gulfs, and its clear ethereal atmosphere,
which brings distant objects close to the beholder and robs shad¬
ows of their depth and gloom. The variegated charm of a north¬
ern landscape must not be looked for in Greece any more than in
Italy; we must learn to comprehend and pay a due meed of admir¬
ation to the severe harmony of colours which here characterizes
mountain and plain, rocks, huildings, and even vegetation.
a. Mode of Travelling. Hotels. Railways. Couriers. Agogiats.
A stay in Athens is, so far as external conditions are concerned,
similar to a stay at Naples or Palermo. Like these towns, the Greek
capital affords all the conveniences which most travellers find necess¬
ary for comfort. There are here several excellent hotels of the first
class, and also good second-class hotels, fitted up in the style of
the Italian alberghi and furnished like them with restaurants. In
the larger hotels the ordinary rule is to pay a fixed sum per day,
varying from I2V2 to 20 fr. according to the season; this price in¬
cludes breakfast, luncheon (about noon), dinner (at 6 or 7 p.m.),
and room (from 5 fr.). In the second-class houses also the fixed
charge (from 9 fr.) is usual during the chief tourist season, but
meals are taken at any hour in the hotel-restaurant. Another plan,
which is often cheaper in the end and affords greater freedom to the
traveller, is to take a room only (from 3 fr.) and have meals a la
carte in the hotel or at one of the very fair restaurants in the town.
— The most important points in the environs may be reached by
railway; other excursions may be made by carriage or on horseback.
The conditions at Corfu resemble those at Athens. Good inns
and good roads make a visit to this lovely island easy for the most
fastidious traveller; and those who have spent two or three days
here will always remember its scenery as one of the most striking
natural features of a tour in Greece.
Good hotels in the European style are to be found at Patras and
Olympia. The leading hotels at the Piraeus, Corinth, and Nauplia,
at Delphi and Chalkis, which also may be included in the list, emu¬
late the Athenian hotels in charges though not in comfort. A distinct
bargain should in all cases be made beforehand as to the price of
rooms and meals, and lower terms than are given in our Handbook
may often he obtained, especially out of the season.
In the rest of Greece tolerahle inns (^svoooysta, XenodocMd),
resembling the alberghi of the small towns of S. Italy, are found