220 Route 30. WALLINGFORD. From London
'Whoe'er has travelled life's dull round,
Where'er his stages may have been,
May sigh to think he still has found
The warmest welcome at an inn'.
68 51. (1.) Wargrave (George & Dragon), a resort of artists, with
a church containing a monument to Thomas Day, author of 'Sand-
ford and 5Ierton". The humorous sign-board of the inn was painted
by G. D. Leslie, It. A., and J. E. Hodgson, A. R. A. On the opposite
bank, a little higher up, is Shiplake, in the church of which Ten¬
nyson was married.
71 M. (1.) Sonning (White Hart: French Horn), a delightful
little village, with an ancient stone bridge. The church contains
some interesting brasses.
74'/2 51. (1.) Beading, see p. 96. Oarsmen making a stoppage
here should leave their boats at Caversham Lock, just below the
town, or at Caversham Bridge, just above it. The Queen's Hotel,
Friar St., is the most easily accessible from the river.
78' 2 M. (r.) Mapledurham (Roebuck, 1 M. below the lock), with
Mapledurham House, a fine Elizabethan mansion, the home of Pope's
friend, 7\lartha Blount. A little farther up, on the same bank, is
Hardwick House. Opposite is Purley (not Home Tooke's).
81 M. (1.) Pangbourne (Elephant & Castle ; George); a pictur¬
esque little village, opposite which lies Whitchurch~^~wiih an old
church containing several good brasses. The banks above this point
are thiokly wooded. Between Pangbourne and Goring the Thames
Valley is crossed by a range of chalk-hills.
85 M. (r.) Goring (Miller of Mansfeld) and (1.) Streatley (Bull;
Swan), two pretty villages united by a long bridge.
91 M. (1.) Wallingford (Lamb; George; Town Arms, unpre¬
tending), an ancient town of 3000 inhab., with the remains of an
old castle. Sir William Blackstone (d. 1780), the eminent jurist,
is interred in St. Peter's Church.
96 M. Day's Lock, one of the prettiest points on the Thames.
To the right is the small river Thame, about 1 M. from the mouth
of which lies Dorchester (Fleur de Lys), a village with about 1200
inhab., not to be confounded with Dorchester in Dorsetshire
(p. 86). This now unimportant village was the seat of a bishop
(of Mercia) from the 7th cent, till after the Norman Conquest,
when the see was removed to Lincoln. An Augustine abbey was
founded here in 1140. The *Abbey Church, which Mr. Freeman
describes as 'a church of the very rudest and meanest order, as far
as outline and ground-plan are concerned, developed to abbatial
magnitude, and adorned with all the magnificence that architecture
can lavish upon individual features', dates in its present form
mainly from the close of the 13th cent., but also comprises much
earlier (Norman) and later work. It has lately been restored. The
fine 'Jesse' window of the chancel, with stone effigies of the de¬
scendants of David, is very interesting. 5'isitors to Dorchester are