154 Route U. ARACHOVA. From Delphi
a sepulchral monument in the shape of a tower. Farther on lie a
number of mills, for all of which the Pleistos (p. 148) supplies
the motive power. The valley is clothed with olive-trees, and on
the slopes are vineyards, which yield excellent wine. The track
gradually ascends, skirts the foot of the Petritis (perhaps the an¬
cient Katopteuterios), and reaches (13/4 hr. from Delphi) the large
and town-like village of Arachova (c. 1850 ft.), where tolerable
food and lodging may be found in the house of Konstantinos
Christdpoulos. The inhabitants, about 3000 in number, are a sturdy
country-people, noted for their love of independence and for the
strength of their family ties. The men are tall and slender and the
women are pretty; their speech is a comparatively pure Greek dia¬
lect. Arachova was often mentioned in the War of Independence ;
and it was here that in 1826 Karaiskakis annihilated 500 Turks
under Mustam Bey, and formed a pyramid of their heads. The
ancient Anemoreia is usually believed to have been near Arachova,
although there are no ruins to indicate its exact site.
The route, still skirting the S. base of Parnassos, passes two or
three gorges, which soon conceal Arachova from view. In 1 hr.
we pass the khan of St. Athanasios, and in 25 min. more the khan of
Zemend, beside a spring. We then descend through a bare and rocky
valley to (2 hrs. from Arachova) the point where the roads from
Daulis and Chaeronea, from Distomo (see below), and from Delphi,
cross each other. The name of this spot, Stavrodrdmi tou Mega,
is derived from the brave Johannes Megas, who met his death here
in 1856 in exterminating a band of brigands with a small troop of
soldiers. His monument, on a rock rising at the crossing of the
ways, bears a few verses in modern Greek. Farther on, beyond a
barren valley called Achladokampos, we reach a second defile. This
spot was known in antiquity as Triodos or Schiste (i.e. -q ayiaTq
boos, the divided road), and was believed to be the place where
OSdipos unwittingly killed his father La'ios. Monuments of stone
which existed until the Roman period commemorated this event.
Distomo, a village of some size (1300 inhab.), 3 M. from Schiste, lies in
the municipal domain of the ancient Ambrysos, which attained importance
only at a comparatively late date, and was captured by the Romans in
189 B.C. — About 33/4 M. to the S.E. of Distomo is the hamlet of Stiris
and a little farther on are the ruined walls of the ancient town of the
same name, and the old convent of Hosios Loukas, built above the tomb of
St. Lucas Stiritis, who lived here in the first half of the 10th century.
At Kyriaki, 6 M. farther on, are the ruins of Phlygonion.
The ancient Antikyra or Anticyra has been identified with some scanty
mural remains near the roadstead of Aspra Spitia, on the gulf of the same
name (p. 32), about 5'/2 M. to the S. of Distomo.
The direct route from the Schiste to Livadia (3-3!/2 nrs.) tra¬
verses the lonely valley of Korakdlitho, the ancient ruins in which
are perhaps those of Trachis. Most travellers, however, make a
detour (about 1V2 fir- longer) by Hagios Vlasis, so as to visit the
battle-field of Clueronea (p. 156).