SALONA. 13. Route. 147
lona(274 fr. for each pers., including luggage)are generally in wait¬
ing. — The direct route froin Itea to Delphi does not pass Salona.
Salona, officially called Amphissa , is a flourishing little town
with 4700 inhab. (fair quarters at the Xenodochion of Karavines,
bed 172-2 fr.). It lies at the foot of the Acropolis of Amphissa,
the most important of the ancient Locrian cities, known from the
war of 339-8 B.C., which Philip II of Macedonia, who had been
commissioned to punish the Amphissians, utilized to effect the
subjugation of Greece (comp. p. 149). Although the extensive
ruins on its Acropolis include many fragments of polygonal ma¬
sonry, by far the greater part of them dates from the period of the
rule of the Frankish counts or of the Turks, for Salona played an
important part in the mediaeval history of Greece. — Mule from
Salona to Delphi (3'/2 hrs.) 5-6 fr.
From Salona to Lamia (p. 198), a ride of 11-12 hrs. — A beautiful
road leads in 5-6 hrs. 5 from Salona via, Topdlia and the Pass of Am-
blema to the fertile upper valley of the Kephisos (p. 153), surrounded by
the E. spurs of Mount CEta, the N. slopes of Parnassos, and the W.
heights of Mount Chlomds. At. the point where we descend into the
plain are the village and khan of Gravid, heroically defended in 1821
against 3000 Turks by Odysseus (p. 57), at the head of 180 Greeks. A marble
monument, with a bust of Odysseus, was erected here in 18S8 to com¬
memorate the event. In the valley of the Kephisos lay the four 'Towns'
of the Dorians, who superseded the ancient Dryopians at the period of
the Doric migration. These were Kytinion, 3fa M. from Gravia; Boion,
near Mariolates 3 M. from Gravia; Erineos, near Kato-Kastelli, 2'/4 M. from
Gravia; and Pindos or Akyphas, near Epano-Kastelli. Remains of them all
may be traced, the least important being those of Pindos. Boion was the
most strongly fortified. — The road traverses the plain which is watered
by the head-streams of the Kephisos, and at Pracho joins the route lead¬
ing to Dadi and Livadia (p. 197). Thence it ascends to the summit of
the pass over the hill of Kallidromos (Sardmata), whence, at the khan of
Prokoveniko, the path to Thermopylae mentioned at p. 197 diverges to the
right. From the khan we descend through the picturesque valley of the
Karvounaria (Asopos), passing the ruins of Herakleia (p. 197), to the village
of Moskochdri, in the plain of the Spercheios. Lamia lies on the other
side of the river. — A visit to Thermopylae may be conveniently com¬
bined with this route.
From Itea to Delphi, I1/4, hrs. We follow at first the carriage-
road to Salona as far as a steep rock, where we strike off to the right,
through the olive-groves and vineyards that cover the centre of the
plain. The gorge of the Phaedriadae (p. 148) can be made out from
the sea before we land at Itea, as well as the gorge between the spur
of Parnassos and the verdant Kirphis, through which the Pleistos
(p. 148; often dry) pours its waters. In less than an hour the
road begins to ascend, and 20 min. farther on (IY4 hr. from Itea)
we reach the large village of Chrysd, near the site of the town of
Krissa (destroyed in 585), which originally ruled over the whole
plain. There are a few remains on the hill of Slephani to the right.
An ancient tower, built with some degree of regularity, and sev¬
eral fragments of Cyclopean fortifications are passed about Y4 hr.
farther on. We then ascend by an ancient road, the surface of
which has been carefully smoothed, to (25 min.) a cliff, with num-