1 10 Route 9.
traveller may refresh himself with masticha (p. xxvi) at the ferry-
house (10 c). The passage (50 c.) usually takes about '/2 nr-i hut
varies according to the state of the wind. The boat plies irre¬
gularly, and there is often a long time to wait. On the way it
passes near the island of St. George, probably one of the ancient
Pharmakousae, on which the Grave of Circe used to be pointed out.
— The buildings on the bay to the W. of the ferry belong to the
Greek Naval Arsenal (steamer to the Piraeus, see p. 108).
The island of Salamis, which now supports 4600 inhabitants
of Albanian origin, owes its name ('Shalam', 'Salem', peace or rest)
to Phoenician settlers. In the Iliad it appears as the home of the
elder Ajax, the son of Telamon, afterwards worshipped here as a
national hero. The possession of the island was long disputed by
Megara and Athens, but was at last permanently secured for the
latter power by Solon and Peisistratos (B.C. 598). Much of the sur¬
face is rugged and barren, but considerable quantities of wine and
grain are produced. The ancient capital lay at the landing-place
('skala') of the present Ambeldki, at the N.W. angle of the bay of
that name, and traces of it are still visible under the water. The
hill with the windmill, on the S. slope of which the ancient town
lay, may be ascended for the sake of the view.
Those who wish a more extensive survey of the island should
follow the broad road crossing a range of low hills to (2^2 M.)
Koulouri, the present capital. There are several taverns and cafe's
here, but those who desire night-quarters are dependent on the
hospitality of Nicolas Papasotiriou, the demarch, and others. The
town, now officially named Salamis, lies on the N.E. bank of a
bay of its own name, which runs deeply into the W. side of the
island and from many points of view appears completely land¬
locked. There are no remains of ancient buildings here. On
festivals the young men and maidens, attired in gaily-coloured
costumes, here perform a number of curious dances, which are sup¬
posed to have preserved the features of a very ancient period.
A pleasant path leads to the W. and then to the N W from Koulouri,
through the valley between the hill of St. Elias and the three conspicu¬
ous windmills, to the convent of Fhaneromene, the scene of a much fre¬
quented Panegyris (Sept. 4th), and thence to the 0/4 hr.) Pirama or ferry,
of Megara. Here remains of antiquity are again encountered The passage
of the strait takes •/* hr. (20-30 c), and the walk from the ferry to
Megara about li/n hr. (see p. 144).
A good road leads from Athens to Eleusis, a distance of 12 M which
may be accomplished by carnage (ca. 20 fr.) in 2>/2 hrs The most con¬
venient route, however, is afforded by the Railway, which ac-nmnlishes
the distance in about 1 hr. (fares 3 fr. 20, 2 fr. 65 c.;' return-ffresTfr 10
4 fr. 15 c). Good walkers may go one way on foot. A stav of o hrs at
Eleusis is ample. A luncheon-basket should be provided
Rah way to Eleusis beginning at the Peloponnesian station
(PI. B, 1), see pp. 143, 144.