I. PRACTICAL HINTS.
the route via Thermopylae and Boudonitza to Orchomenos and Li¬
vadia or Thebes in the reverse direction.
For an excursion of 4-5 days from Athens to Corinth, Mycenae,
and Nauplia, directions are given at pp. 244, 245. Instead of using
the railway or steamboat between Athens and Nauplia, we may
select the longer route via Epidauros (R. 30) and take the opportun¬
ity for a visit to Algina; this will add 11/2-2 days to the excursion.
Those who add a tour in the Peloponnesus to the above, in¬
stead of returning from Nauplia to Athens, may proceed as follows.
From Nauplia to Tripolitza or Piali-Tegea (R. 35) .... 1
From Tripolitza or Piali-Tegea to Sparta (R. 36) .... ll/2
Sparta and its Environs (R. 37)............li/2
Through the Langada to Kalamata (pp. 277,278) .... 1
From Kalamata to Messene (R. 47).......... 1
From Messene to Phigaleia (pp. 350,351)....... 1
From Phigaleia to Andritsaena via the Temple of Bassae
(R. 43)...................... 1
From Andritsaena to Olympia (pp. 304, 305)...... 1
Olympia (R. 46) .................. 2
From Olympia to Pyrgos and Katdkolon (p. 320) .... ^
By steamer to Zante (p. 26) and Corfu........ 1
Corfu (R. 3).................... 3
A visitto Cephalonia and Ithaka (RR. 5, 6) takes 5-6 days more.
The route via Sparta, Kalamata, and Messene is too long for
many travellers, who therefore proceed direct to Olympia via Me¬
galopolis, Karylaena, and Andritsaena (3-4 days; R. 41), making
a digression to Bassae (pp. 308-310).
A voyage round the Peloponnesus by the Greek steamers (RR.
33, 44) is also very interesting, and the halts at the chief ports are
long enough to allow of landing.
The state of Public Safety in Greece is at present all that can be
desired. Since the bold acts of brigandage in 1870 (p. 120), when several
English travellers were the victims, the Greek government has exerted
itself strenuously to extirpate this national evil; and only a few isolated
cases have occurred near the Turkish frontier. The Peloponnesus has for
years been considered perfectly safe.
d. Restaurants and Cafes. Wine. Tobacco.
Travellers who limit their excursion to Athens and lodge in the
larger hotels there will have little need or opportunity to make ac¬
quaintance with the Greek Restaurants (ssrwrdpia, estiatdrid), as
all the meals for the day are included in the hotel-charge for 'pen¬
sion'. Those, however, who frequent hotels of the second class in
Athens, or who visit other towns, may find the following list of the
most common Greek dishes useful. Meals are generally eaten a la
carte (dinner 11-2, supper 6-8), sometimes also at a fixed price
(3-5 fr.). In the larger Athenian restaurants the cuisine is half