I. PRACTICAL HINTS.
cially for long journeys, prefer the sainari to the poor specimen of
an English saddle (sella) which is often the only substitute. Sitting
sideways in the samari, as the natives often do, is recommended
for a change, and is quite easy with a walking horse. The courier,
however, is bound to provide English saddles if preferred. Luggage
is much more easily transported on a native saddle than on an
Short excursions, on which the traveller returns to the start¬
ing-point in 2-3 days, should be made with the same agogiat, as
better terms may then be made for the hire of the horses. In longer
journeys, however, it is better to change the agogiat every 2-3 days,
which can be done only at places of some size, as the agogiats are
seldom competent guides except in the vicinity of their homes.
This practice also obviates the necessity of paying for days of rest,
while the frequent change of horses makes forced marches, should
such be desirable, more practicable.
The Pkices stated in this Handbook are the average charges paid by
travellers, and in some cases may be rather below than above the mark.
The tourist will, perhaps, not always be able to reduce the demands made
on him to the above rates, especially if he is unwilling to lose time
in prolonged haggling. It should also be remembered that the prices
naturally rise under special circumstances. Thus the hire of horses and
mules is generally much raised during the ploughing season and harvest
and also, in towns, on Sundays and holidays.
Equipment. For Athens, Corfu, and all places reached by
railway, the traveller in Greece need not make any other prepara¬
tions than for a tour in Italy. For tours in the interior he should
provide himself with a suit of grey tweed, such as is used by sports¬
men at home, and an overcoat of some moderately thick or water¬
proof material. The tailor should be instructed to see that the seams
are sewn with particular care and that the buttons are well fastened
on, as repairs are expensive and cause great delay. Riding-breeches
are highly desirable; but if ordinary trousers are worn, buttons for
riding-straps should not be forgotten. Woollen underclothing is
necessary as a preventive of chills (comp. p. xxx), and it is prudent
to wear a woollen vest at night. Flannel shirts are in many respects
more convenient than linen ones, and they practically diminish the
bulk of the luggage. For the transport of the latter on horseback,
waterproof bags or wallets are much more convenient than trunks or
hard leather portmanteaux. The boots should be strong and able
to resist the friction of rocky mountain-paths and ruined masonry.
The hat should have a brim wide enough to afford some shade from
the sun, and a 'puggaree' tied round it (obtainable in Athens) will
also be found acceptable. Smoke-coloured spectacles will be found
a great relief to the eyes, though their use feels a little strange at
first. They may be purchased from the Italian optician Labarbera,
in the Rue d'Hermes, and in several other shops in Athens, but may
be obtained more cheaply in England or Italy.
Baedeker's Greece. b