I. PRACTICAL HINTS.
to advantage. Each passenger is entitled to 66 lbs. of luggage free.
The luggage is booked (fee 10 c.) and a ticket obtained for it, with
which the traveller reclaims it on arriving at his destination. For
the Greek words for railway, compartment, etc., see p. xl.
Those who are not conversant with modern Greek should not
attempt to travel in the interior without a guide. The best and
most detailed guide-book cannot supply his place. The most com¬
fortable way of travelling is with a Courier or Dragoman. There
are in Athens several thoroughly trustworthy men of this class, who
speak English, French, or Italian. In return for a fixed inclusive
sum of 40-50 fr. per day for each traveller, the courier takes upon
himself the entire cost of the journey. His functions begin when
the party leaves the hotel at Athens and end on its return to
Athens or arrival at any other point agreed upon. He pays all rail¬
way, steamboat, or carriage fares, hires the saddle-horses and pack-
horses, provides all meals (including wine, coffee, etc.), secures
accommodation for the night, and is generally responsible for the
comfort of the travellers under his care. On the longer expeditions,
and in all cases where the night has to be spent in a place without
a good Xenodochion (p. xii), the courier has to provide a mattress
and bedding for each member of the party; some couriers supply
camp-bedsteads. Large parties, in similar circumstances, should
stipulate for the services of a cook. The route to be followed and
the places where the nights are to be spent should be agreed upon
beforehand, with the help of the suggestions given at p. xxiii. The
couriers generally dislike any longer delay en route than is necessary
as a rest for the horses, and it is therefore desirable to make it
distinctly understood that the traveller retains perfect liberty in this
respect, so far as consistent with the general arrangements of the
tour. If the tour is prolonged through the fault of the tourist, he
must, of course, pay for the extra time spent upon it. Half of the
sum agreed upon is generally paid to the dragoman in advance, to
enable him to purchase the necessary stores. The other half should
be retained to the end of the journey, its retention sometimes act¬
ing as a spur to the inborn Oriental indolence of the Greek. The
owners of the cottages and khans where the nights are spent gener¬
ally look for a gratuity from the traveller in addition to the settle¬
ment of the bill by the courier.
It is scarcely usual to have a written Contract with the courier. We
give here, however, the text of such a contract in English and French,
as its provisions will in any case be of use to the traveller as a guide in
making a verbal agreement ('Symphonia').
1. The courier N. N. binds himself to conduct the travellers A. B., x in
number, over the following route, starting from Athens. (The names of the
night-quarters and places aside from the usual route are to be inserted
here.) The courier may not add other travellers to the party without the
consent of the said A. B.
2. The courier undertakes to defray all the expenses of the journey for
transport, food, and lodging, and to pay all fees and gratuities, leaving
the traveller free from all liability for claims of payment or reimbursement.