I. PRACTICAL HINTS.
prehend and pay a due meed of admiration to the severe harmony
of colours which here characterizes mountain and plain, rocks,
buildings, and even vegetation.
a. Mode of Travelling. Hotels. Railways. Couriers.
Agogiats. Equipment. Topographical Terms.
A stay in Athens is, so far as external conditions are concerned,
similar to a stay at Naples or Palermo. Like these towns, the Greek
capital affords all the conveniences which most travellers find necess¬
ary for comfort. There are here several excellent hotels of the first
class, with comparatively moderate tariffs, and also good second-
class hotels, fitted up in the style of an Italian locanda and fur¬
nished with a trattoria or restaurant. In the larger hotels the ordi¬
nary rule is to pay a fixed sum per day, varying from 10 to 15 fr.
according to the season; this price includes breakfast, luncheon
(about noon), dinner (at 6 or 7 p.m.), and room (3-5 fr.). In the
second-class houses the charge for rooms is somewhat lower, and
meals are taken a la carte. The most important points in the en¬
virons may now be reached by railway; other excursions may be
made by carriage or on horseback.
The conditions at Corfu resemble those at Athens. Good inns
and good roads make a visit to this lovely island easy for the most
fastidious traveller; and those who have spent two or three days
here will always remember its scenery as one of the most striking
natural features of a tour in Greece.
In the Test of Greece we can use the railway to Corinth, Mycenae,
Argos, Tiryns, and Patras (in 1889 perhaps also from Patras to
Pyrgos-Olympia), and from Volo to the chief places in Thessaly.
Tolerable inns [^fioooyeia, XenodocMa), resembling the locandas of
the small towns of S. Italy, are found at the Piraeus, Corinth,
Nauplia, Patras, Olympia, Zante,Syra(Hermoupolis), Chalkis, Volo,
Lamia, and Larissa.
Travelling in the interior of the country, apart from the districts
traversed by the above-mentioned railways, is still accompanied
by numerous inconveniences, though the number of these is being
reduced by the gradual extension of the network of roads. Horse¬
back is still the common mode of travelling (comp. p. xvi), and
the accommodation for travellers is still of the scantiest descrip¬
tion, unless they have the good fortune to bear introductions ensuring
the hospitality of some of the well-to-do natives. The inns, some¬
times calling themselves Xenodochfa, but generally content with
the humbler title of Khans, are usually miserable cottages, with a
kitchen andone large common sleeping-room ;nowadays someof them
also possess a few separate rooms, which are, however, destitute of
furniture, glass windows, and fire-places. The traveller must bring
his own coverings with him, as the rugs presented him for bed-clothes
are almost always full of vermin. For a similar reason a sleeping-