THEBES. 24. Route. 225
On ■the left bank, as we draw near Thebes, rise high limestone
hills, presenting precipitous sides'to the river, from which, however,
they are separated by a Strip of fertile land. The right bank is flatter,
and the Arabian hills retreat farther into the distance. Before
reaching the point where the W. chain projects a long curved mass
of rock towards the river, we see to the left first the great obelisk,
and the pylons of the temple of Karnak, half-concealed by palm-
trees. When we clear the abrupt profile of the W. cliffs and new
formations are visible at its foot, we may catch a distant view of
Luxor towards the S.E. None of the buildings on the W- bank are
visible until the steamer hasascended ashigh as Karnak; then firstthe
Colossi of Memnon and afterwards the Ramesseum and the Temple
of Der el-bahri come into view. The telegraph-posts and wires,
which here obtrude themselves upon the view, seem strangely out
of place beside the majestic relics of Egypt's golden period. As we
gradually approach Luxor, we distinguish the flags flying above the
white houses on the bank and from the consular dwellings. The
castellated villa of a Dutch resident is conspicuous in the back¬
ground. In a few minutes more the steamer halts, close to the colon¬
nades of the mighty temple of Amenophis III.
Arrival. The three-weeks tourist steamers halt for three days (8th,
9th, and 10th) at Luxor on the upward journey; the four-weeks steamers
for five days. Travellers by the mail-steamers and by Gaze's seventeen
days steamers spend 3-4 days in a hotel. — The Quay lies in front of the
Luxor Hotel (see below); porters await the arrival of the steamers. Tra¬
vellers should see that all their luggage is landed and conveyed to the
hotel, and should not quit the quay till this is done. — The Railway
Station (p. 180) is S.E. of the village of Luxor. — Post Office beside the
Karnak Hotel; Telegraph Office near the Luxor Hotel.
Hotels (comp. p. lxxvii). "Luxor Hotel, with a fine large garden in
which several interesting monuments are placed, pens, per day 15». or 19 fr.
in Jan. and Feb., 13s. orl6'/»fr. the rest of the year (bottle of Medoc 4*.,
bottle of beer 2s. 6d.), cheaper forEgyptologists and those making a stay
of some time. Pension includes morning coffee, lunch about noon, sup¬
plied also to those making excursions, and a substantial dinner about 6
p.m. The rooms are clean but not luxurious. The manager of the hotel,
which belongs to Messrs. Thos. Cook Si Son, is M. Pagnon. — 'Karnak
Hotel, '/a M. lower down on a terrace on the river, also belonging to
Messrs. Cook, quiet, with lower charges. — Grand Hotel Thewfikieh
(MeBsrs. Gaze & Son), finely situated, pens. 12*., wine from 2*.
Consular Agents. British: Ahmed Mustafa. American: Ali Murad.
German: Todros Bulos.
Physician. Dr. W. Longmore, managing physician of the hospital,
which is supported by the voluntary contributions of travellers.
Distribution of Time. The ruins of the city of the hundred gates aie
so huge, so widely scattered, and so profoundly interesting, that at least
5-6 days are necessary to inspect the chief points alone. — Cook's tourist
programme devotes'the 1st day to the temple of Sethos I. at Kurna and
'the Tombs of the Kings, the return being made at the choice of the tourist
either direct or over the hill to Der el-bahri, the Ramesseum, and the
Colossi of Memnon. — 2nd day: Karnak; Luxor in the afternoon. —
3rd day: Ramesseum, Tombs of ShSkh 'Abd el-Kurna, Der el-Medineh
Baeoekek's Egypt. 4th Ed. 15