PORSANGER FJORD. Map,p.228.~ 34. R. 239
plateau, where a wire, very acceptable in foggy weather (but
reported in disrepair), leads in 20 min. more to the top. A granite
column recalls the visit of King Oscar II. in 1873, and a 'Varde'
or cairn that of Emp. William II. in 1891. A cold wind generally
prevails. (In the pavilion champagne is sold at 8-14 kr. per bottle.)
The sun is at its lowest at 11.17 p.m., by mid-European time. The
view embraces the open sea to the W., N., and E.; to the S.W. we
see the Hjelme and the Rolfse; E., in the distance, the Nordkyn;
S. the plateau of the Magere, with its patches of snow, its ponds,
and scanty vegetation.
'The northern sun, creeping at midnight at the distance of five dia¬
meters along the horizon, and the immeasurable ocean in apparent con¬
tact with the skies, form the grand outlines in the sublime picture pre¬
sented to the astonished spectator. The incessant cares and pursuits of
anxious mortals are recollected as a dream; the various forms and ener¬
gies of animated nature are forgotten; the earth is contemplated only
in its elements, and as constituting a part of the solar system'. — Acerbi
'Travels to the North Cape'. London, 1802.
'And then uprose before me,
Upon the water's edge,
The huge and haggard shape
Of that unknown North Cape,
Whose form is like a wedge'. Longfellow.
To the E. of the North Cape is an excellent fishing-ground (comp. p. 244)
where passengers are usually indulged with an hour or two of hand-line
fishing from the deck of the steamer, the sailors willingly assisting.
34. From the North Cape to Vads».
m Ab°ut 6p S.M. (comp. p. 212). The mail - steamers (Com. 226 and
227c) take 62-70 hrs.
Beyond the North Cape the sole attraction of the voyage is the
utter bleakness and solemnity of the scene. Both mainland and is¬
lands consist of vast monotonous plateaux, called Naringen, rising
1000-2000 ft., and for half-a-day at a time not a boat, not a human
dwelling is to be seen.
From the Maase (p. 238) the mail-boats steer E. through the
narrow Mageresund, between the Magere and the mainland. On the
E. coast of the Magere are stations Honningsvaagen and (6 S.M.
from Maase) Kjelviken, with a church and the Landhandler's house.
We next pass the mouth of the Porsanger Fjord, about 20Kil.
broad, and extending 120 Kil. inland, to which local steamers ply
from Hammerfest. In July and August the 'Sei' (saithe, Gadus
virens), akin to the cod, is largely caught here. The Sei enters the
fjord in pursuit of the 'Lodde' (Osmerus arcticus, a kind of smelt),
which resorts to the shore to spawn. After the Lofoten fishery
(p. 223) the fishermen come here for the 'Lodde' fishery.
The N. headland of the peninsula of Spirte - Njarga, which
bounds the Porsanger Fjord on the E., is the Svarholdklubben, com¬
posed of clay-slate, about 1000 ft. high, the haunt of millions of
sea-fowl. It belongs to the Landhandler of Svarholt, which lies