238 R. 33. — Map, p. 228. NORTH CAPE.
spicuous are the islands of Seiland and S0r0. To the N. stretches the
vast horizon of the Arctic Ocean. Of Hammerfest itself the Fuglnaes only
is visible. — The best way back is W., by the top of the Sadlen (p. 237),
where the view ia similar, though less extensive. By this route, the whole
excursion takes 4, otherwise 3-3V2 hrs.
Beyond Hammerfest the land ceases to be of account except as
subservient to the sea, and fish becomes the centre of all interests.
The landscape is Arctic, and the vegetation so scanty, that a patch
of grass 'which might be covered with a copy of the Times' is hailed
as a meadow. — On the right the coast is deeply indented with
fjords. On the left there are a few islands, and between these are
long stretches of open sea.
35 S.M. Rolfsehavn, on the Rolfse. To the S., near the main¬
land, is the small Rene, where the mail-steamers call alternately
with the Rolfse. '
We next steer through the Havesund, between the mainland and
the Have, an island with a church, a pastor, and a Landhandler,
iu which rises a pointed hill called the Sukkertop ('sugar-loaf').
The mail-steamers now enter the Maassund, touching at the Maase,
also with church, parsonage, and Landhandler, or sometimes at
Gjesvar (see below), and then usually pass through the MageTe-
sund (p. 239).
The tourist-steamers steer N.E. in the Maasefjord, between the
Hjelmse (left) and the Maase (right). At the N. end of the Hjelmse
is a 'bird-hill', the haunt of countless sea-fowl, with the curiously
shaped Hjelmsetoren. — On the Magere, E., the Gjesvartop soon
comes in sight, in front of which is Gjesvar, on an islet, at which
the mail and the local boats touch. To the N. rise the *Stappene
(stappi, old Norse 'column'), three pointed rocky islands covered
with dense flocks of gulls, auks, and other sea-fowl. When scared
by a cannon-shot thousands of them rise in dense snow-like clouds,
uttering shrill cries. Others take to the water, but many remain
sitting on ledges of the rock.
To the right opens the Tuefjord, cutting deep into the Magere.
We then round the long, low Knivskjar- or Knivskjal - Odde
(71° 11' N. lat.; a little further N. than the Cape), on which a
mail-steamer struck in a fog in 1881, and soon (47 S.M. from
Tromse) sight the North Cape, which presents a majestic appearance
though of moderate height.
The **North Cape (1017 ft.; 71° 10' 24" N. lat., 25° 45' 50" E.
long.), the precipitous N. headland of the Magere, called Knes-
kanas by the early geographer Schoning, a dark-grey slate-rock,
furrowed with deep clefts, is usually regarded as the northmost
point of Europe, though the Nordkyn (p. 240) is the northmost
continental point. Passengers land in the Hornvik, on the N.E.
side of the Cape. A rude path, bordered with iron stanchions and
ropes, ascends the green mossy slope, swampy and stony at places.
(Stout boots and wraps advisable.) In about 50 min. we reach the