236 R. 33. — Map,p. 228. HAMMERFEST. From Troms0
bridle-path. We pass a number of 'sieidi', or sacred stones ('sieidi-gergi',
oracle stones), formerly worshipped by the Lapps. The first night is spent in
the Jotkastue or Romsdalsstue, by the small lake of Jotkajavre (1302 ft.; about
45 Kil. from Bossekop). — Farther on we observe N.E. the conical Vuorie
Gaissa (3337 ft.) and the Vuolla-Njunnes (2760 ft.), once famous places of
sacrifice. The country is mostly wooded. We next row down the large lake
of Jesjjavre (1332 ft.), or ride along its bank, and then ride or row down the
valley of the rapid, but navigable Jesjjokk to the Mollesjokstue, the second
'Fjeldstue' or refuge, about 40 Kil. beyond the Jotkastue. — We again cross
the fjeld to (35 Kil.) the third station, the Ravnastue. Thence we either
go direct, by the Gceimo-Javre, to (2o Kil.) Karasjok, or first to (16 Kil.)
the Karasjokka ('rapid river') and descend on its left bank to (16 Kil.)
Karasjok. — Karasjok (440 ft.; 'Nielsen's Hot), with about 300 settled inhab.,
has a church and a large school-house, and is thoroughly Lappish. — The
rest of the journey is by boat. Below Karasjok (15 Kil.) the Karasjokka
joins the Anarjokka. The combined rivers form the TanaElv, the right
bank of which is Russian. At Levvajok, halfway to Polmak, is a 'Fjeld¬
stue', in which the night may be spent. Next day the Storfos must be
passed on foot, the boat being dragged down by land; but the other rapids
are not dangerous unless the river is low. At the church of Polmak both
banks of the river are Norwegian. At Suoppanjargga, 7 Kil. above Seida
(p. 242), we leave the boat, and go 17 Kil. by road to Nyborg (p. 242).
From 0ksfjord the mail-boat steers N., towards the mountainous
Sere, where it stops at Servar, Breivik, Hasvik, and sometimes
at Gaashopen. This island, like the Stjerne and Seiland, which
mask the mouth of the Altenfjord (p. 235) on the right, have the
table-land character common in Finmarken, In Seiland rises the
ice-clad Nordmansjekel (3527 ft.); on the N. bank of the island
are Kaaihavn and the islet of Vinna, where the steamer calls once
a week. Numerous bays cut deep into the island. Between Seiland
and the curiously shaped island of Haajen we near the harbour
of Hammerfest. Before entering it, we look to the right into the
strait of Stremmen, separating Seiland from the Kvale, on which
Hammerfest lies. A headland of the Kvale narrows the strait to
1 Kil. at one point, across which the reindeer herds are made to
swim to their summer pastures in Seiland.
30 S.M. Hammerfest. — Grand Hot., very fair. — Telegraph in
the Grizrnnevoldgade, bv the harbour. — Brit.Vice-Consul, C. Robertson. —
Local Steamers of the Nordenfjeld Co. ply from Hammerfest thrice
weekly to the Altenfjord (p. 235; Com. 425: twice taking two days, once
one day there and back); also twice a week to the Porsanger Fjord and
the Laxefjord (p. 210; Com. 426; 3V2 days, there and back).
Hammerfest, founded in 1787, with 2300 inhab., is the north-
most town in the world (70° 40' 11" N. lat., 23° 45' 25" E. long.).
The town is wholly timber-built. The sun does not set here from
13th May to 29th July, nor rise from 18th Nov. to 23rd Jan. (electric
light). The port is frequented by ships from almost all parts of
Europe, but chiefly from Russia. The chief exports are fish and
train-oil, the imports hemp, flax, sail-cloth, iron goods, and corn.
Fishing-fleets are dispatched hence to the polar seas. Cod-liver oil,
prepared in numerous boileries, is the most valuable commodity.
Hence the all-pervading 'ancient and fish-like smell'.
The harbour is skirted by the Grennevold-Gade, where rise the