234 R.33. — Map, p.228. LYNGEN. From Tromse
The vessel steers close under the rocks familiarly known as Smer-
stabben (butter-slices), from their variegated horizontal strata. The
opposite bank is also mountainous and partly covered with snow,
but has no glaciers. Opposite the islet of Aar0holm rises W. the
Golborre, and S.W. the Fastdalstind. Farther on, opposite the
mouth of the Kaafjord, tower the immense Kjostinder (5414 ft.).
We round a headland, and, about 2 hrs. from the entrance to the
fjord, reach —
Lyngen or Lyngseidet (quarters, for a longer stay only, at Anton
Gjaever's, the Landhandler), residence of a pastor, a doctor, and a
Lensmand. After so long a voyage in an inhospitable region, the
little church amid birch-clad hills, flanked with snow-mountains,
is specially attractive. To the S. of the valley, through which the
road leads W. to Kjosen (p. 233), rises the Goalsevarre (4232 ft.).
At its foot, about 20 min. from Lyngen, is a large Lapp Settlement,
to visit which some of the tourist-ships land their passengers.
Lyngseidet, served five times a week by steamers from Troms0 (once
by mail-steamer of Line II, twice by Lyngenfjord steamer, and twice by
the Ulfsfjord boat to Kjosen, 4 Kil. from Lyngen; see below; Com. 226a, 418,
421), is a good centre for "Excursions in the Lyngen District. Hr. Gjsever
procures land and boat-Bkyds, but guides are difficult to get. Petersen's
geological map of Troms0-Amt and the Beskrivelse af Tromse-Amt (1 kr.),
published by the 'Geografiske Opmaaling' in Christiania', will be most
useful. Patience is required in dealing with the sluggish but proud peasantry
of the district. The traveller who seeks quarters from them deposits his
luggage at the door, and waits until his request is answered with a ' Velkom'
and a handshake. About l'/2 kr. is given per day. Less ceremony is re¬
quired with the Lapps.
Good walkers may ascend the Goalsevarre (see above) in 4 hrs. without
a guide; a porter (2 kr.) may be taken from the Lapp encampment where
the ascent begins. Keep to the left of the brook. The »View from the top
embraces (E.) the S. part of the Lyngenfjord and (N.) the Kjostinder —
An excursion to the mountain-basin enclosed by the Goalsevarre, the
Rernaistinder (ca. 4100 ft.), and the Jertind (ca. 3600 ft.) takes 6-7 hrs. —
Another fine excursion for one day: cross the Eid to Kjosen (4 Kil.; p. 266);
row to the (IV2 hr.) Forncesdal, and walk up that valley (toilsome; guide
necessary, 4 kr.), crossing old moraines, to the "Fomossdal-Bra!, a superb
glacier descending abruptly from the Golzevaggegaissa, between the Fornne-
stind and the Durmaalstind.
The following tour takes l1/* day: drive S. to (12 Kil.; fare d kv.)
Pollen, then row to Dalen (poor quarters at both); next day walk by a,
good path on the left bank up the beautiful but uninhabited Lyngdal,
passing the Jaeggevarre (6286 ft.) on the N., to the (2V2 hrs.) great glacier
descending from the main plateau (lower end 1300 ft. above the sea), from
the Lyngsdal we may also ascend the Njalavarre (5027 ft.) to the S. (grand
view of the Jteggevarre glaciers), or walk N. to the glaciers of the Ruksis-
Another interesting excursion is E. to the Kaafjord, where the local
boats call (Com. 41Sa). Good quarters at Kr. Wassmuth's at Langnas. Six
immense waterfalls descend about 3000 ft. from the steep sides of the inner
Kaafjord The dwellers on the Kaafjord are mostly 'Sea Lapps', who have
abandoned nomadic life and now live by fishing and cattle-rearing. From
the steamboat-station Birtavarra, at the end of the fjord, a road ascends
the Kaafjorddal to (ca. 3-4 hrs.) the Birtavarra copper-mmes. Near Skatvold
are interesting coast-lines (p. xxxii).
The Troms0-Amt Steamer goes on, S. of Lyngen, to the market village
of Skibotten (good quarters at Antonie RascVs), at the mouth of a river