232 R.32.— Map,p.228. FL0IFJELD.
or 'Gammer, are stone or clay huts, with openings at the top for
the exit of smoke, and in summer they have canvas-tents stretched
on birch-poles. The Lapps offer fur-boots (Skal-Komager, or Shatter),
spoons of reindeer-horn, and other articles for sale. They possess
a herd of 2000-3000 reindeer, which graze on the adjoining hills.
The peculiar crackling of the animal's hoofs recalls the sound
produced by an electric battery. The reindeer are caught by a kind
of lasso thrown over their horns. They are milked twice a week
only. The rich and rather strong milk, the Lapp's chief article of
diet, is diluted with water before use. 'The milk is strong and
thick, as if beaten up with eggs' (Scheffer's Lapponica, 1675). The
cheese made of it is reserved for winter. — On the way back from
the Tromsdal we obtain a beautiful *View of Tromse, with its green
hills, and the snow-mountains of the Kvale (p. 230) and the Ring¬
vadse (see below) beyond.
The Fluifjeld (2600 ft.; about 2'/2 hrs., guide advisable), a moss-clad
rocky hill, rising from the sea opposite Troms0, on the S. side of the en¬
trance to (he Tromsdal, is an excellent point of view. The path diverges
from the Tromsdal route to the right, a few minutes from Storstennfes,
beyond the houses. It soon becomes steep, and ends halfway up; we
then ascend over meadows (rich polar flora) and loose stones, and partly
over snow. The top i3 marked by an iron vane. With caution, we may
descend direct (no path) to the Lapp camp (see above).
The Tromsdalstind (4065ft.; 3-4 hrs.; guide from Tromse, 10-12 kr.,
may be dispensed with by experts) may be ascended from the Lapp camp.
We walk to the (1 hr.) head of the valley, which ends in a great basin
like those in the Pyrenees; then ascend the steep slope to the left, at
first over turf, then over snow. Herds of reindeer sometimes graze here.
To reach the crest of the hill we have to scale a very steep snow-field.
The final ascent, over snow and detritus, is easier. The top, marked by
a varde, commands the magnificent scenery of the Ulfsfjord and the gla¬
cier-chain on the Lyngenfjord ; to the W. stretches the Arctic Ocean beyond
Troms0 and the Kvaljzr. On the E. side the mountain falls almost sheer to
a valley extending from the Ulfsfjord to the Balsfjord.
33. From Troms» to the North Cape.
46 S.M. Distances from Troms0 are prefixed to the chief stations.
From Tromstf to Hammerfest the Bergen and Nordenfjeld Mail Steamer takes
16-18 hrs., the Vesteraalen Express Boat 11 hrs. only. — The Bergen
and Nordenfjeld Tourist Steamers leave Troms0 in the evening, reach the
Fugle about midnight, and Hammerfest next morning, and are off the North
Cape in the evening; those of the Vesteraalen Co. start from Tromsjzf in
the morning and arrive at the North Cape late in the evening.
We steer N. through the Tromsesund, and N.E. through the
Gretsund. To the left lies the mountainous Ringvadse (with a
glacier and a lake formed by a moraine); then the Reine, at the S.W.
end of which lies Finkroken. The steamers sometimes pass through
the Langfjord, between the Ringvadse and the Reine. On the main-
'En Sommer i Finmarken', Kristiania, 1871; Friis's 'Lappisk Mythologi
og Lappiske Eventyr', Kristiania, 1871; J. Vahl's 'Lapperne, etc.', 1866;
F. Vincent's 'Norsk, Lapp, and Finn', 1885; Cutcliffe Hyne's 'Through Arctic