JOTUNHEIM. 22. Route. 143
a guide's fee. No charge is made for thereturn-journey. — Alpenstocks,
though very useful for steeper ascents, are not in favour in Norway, and
good ones cannot be procured there (comp. p. xxivl. On the other band,
Ice-axes CIsexer'') and stout Ropes CiM>') are now supposed to be provided
at the chief stations of the Turist-Forening, though as a matter of fact this
is not always the case. Indeed, the whole 'technique' of mountaineering
is much more perfectly understood and practised in the Alps than in Nor¬
way, where, however, it is less required. — Those who travel without a
guide should, as a rule, on leaving one of the saeters, whence numerous
paths always diverge ask to be shown the way for the first half-hour.
With the exception of the greater ascents, most ofthe excursions may
be made on horseback. In the hire paid for a horse the services of an
attendant are never included, but must be paid for separately; if he is a
full-grown mon ('voxen Mand') he receives the same fee as a guide.
The following tour (9-10 days) includés the Finest Points in
Jotunheim. — From Aardal on the Sognefjord to Vetti (p. 144), half-
a-day; via Skogadalsbeen and over the Keiser to Turtegre (p.149),
one day ; excursions from Turtegre, one day ; via the Bavertun-
Sater to Rejshjem (p. 151), two days; over the Galdhepig (p. 152)
to Spiterstulen (p. 165 ; which may be reached a day earlier by the
omission of Rejshjem) and to Lake Gjende (p. 161), two days ; excur¬
sions from Lake Gjende and thence via Gjendebodvn to Eidsbugaren
(p. 157), two days; via the Skinegg and Tvindehougen to Skogstad or
Nystuen(-p. 55), one day. — Turtegre may be reached from Skjolden
on the Sognefjord (p. 138) in 3 hrs., via Fortun (p. 148).
In addition to the approaches to the Jotunheim considered in the follow¬
ing description, the route from Vinstra to Gjendesheim (see p. 162) may
also be mentioned.
Distances in the following descriptions are calculated for good walkers.
It should be borne in mind that walking in Jotunheim is, owing to the
want of paths, much more fatiguing than among the Swiss Alps. Ampie
time should therefore always beallowed. — A standard rule of Norwegian
travel is that horses, guides, boats, food, etc, should always he ordered
in good time, on the day before if possible. An early start is almost im-
possible if, owing to the want of guides (see p. 142), one has to wait for
a. From Aardal on the Sognefjord to Vetti. Vettisfos.
To Vetti about 5 hrs., viz. l^-i'/s hr. by rowing-boat ; I1/4 hr. by
cariole, on horseback, or on foot; the rest on foot, the path being almost
too bad for riding. As the Sognefjord steamers to Aardal are not timed
very conveniently, and the quarters at Aardal are unpretending, this route
is a little uncomfortable. It is recommended only to those who are going
on to Jotunheim or who intend making the circuit of the Horunger, but
hardly repays visitors to the Vettisfos only.
Aardal, see p. 136. We walk up the Aardals-Elv, on the right
bank of which we observe the gaard Hereid, to the (Y4 hr.) Aar-
dalsvand, a lake 14 Kil. long, surrounded by abrupt cliffs and deep
ravines. A boat and rowers are always ready in the travelling season
to carry passengers to the upper end of the lake (l*/2 hr. ; 1 pers.
80 e., 2 pers. 1 kr. 32, 3 pers. 1 kr. 62 e.). To the right we see
the Stegafjeld, with the precipice of Opstegene on its E. side ;
beyond lies the Fosdal with the Eldegaard, to which a zigzag path
ascends past a waterfall. Farther on, high up to the right, is the