254 Route 29. NIAGARA FALLS.
from this scene of secret power, so different from the thunderous splen¬
dours of the cataract itself, rise lofty cliffs on every side, to a height of
two hundred feet, clothed from the water's edge almost to their crests
with dark cedars. Noiselessly, so far as your senses perceive, the lakes
steal out of the whirlpool, then, drunk and wild, with brawling rapids
roar away to Ontario through the narrow channel of the river. Awful as
the scene is, you stand so far above it that you do not know the half of
its terribleness; for those waters that look so smooth are great ridges and
rings, forced, by the impulse of the currents, twelve feet higher in the
centre than at the margin. Nothing can live there, and with what is
caught in its hold, the maelstrom plays for days, and whirls and tosses
round and round in its toils, with a sad maniacal patience'. (Howells.)
The Rivee Road ascends along the American side of the river from
Goat Island Bridge to (1 M.) the Old French Landing, where La Salle and
Father Hennepin are said to have embarked in 1678 after their portage
from Lewiston. Nearly opposite, on the Canadian shore, is the village of
Chippewa, where the Americans defeated the English in 1814. About 1 M.
farther up is the Sclilosser Landing, fortified by the French in 1750 and
by the English in 1761. Navy Island, near the Canadian shore, gave
shelter to the insurgents of the 'Mackenzie War' (1837-38). Just above is
Grand Island (26sq.M. in area; comp. p. 249), which obtained some notoriety
in 1820, when Major Noah proposed to found here the city of Ararat, as a
universal refuge for the Jews. Opposite Grand Island, on the American
shore, 5 M. above the Falls, is the mouth of the Cayuga, where La Salle
launched the 'Griffon', the first vessel to navigate the Great Lakes (1679).
The Observation Trains of the N.Y.C.R.R. between Niagara Falls and
(7 M.) Lewiston (return-fare 25 c) afford admirable "Views (to the left) of
the gorge of the Niagara. — Lewiston, a pleasant little village, is the
starting-point of the steamers across Lake Ontario to Toronto (comp.
Baedeker's Canada). A fine suspension-bridge, erected in 1899, 800 ft. in
span, and traversed by an electric tramway, connects Lewiston with
Queenston, on the opposite shore, where Gen. Brock fell on Oct. 11th, 1812
(spot marked by a monument 195 ft. high). Queenston is a station on the
Michigan Central R.R. (electric tramway, see p. 248). — About 8 M. to the
N.E. of Niagara Falls is the Reservation of the Tuscarora Indians (p. 233';
baskets, etc., for sale). — Fort Niagara, at the (14 M.) mouth of the river,
first established in 1678, is now garrisoned by U. S. troops (tramway,
see p. 248). Opposite is the watering-place of Niagara-on-the-Lake. —
Comp. Baedeker's Handbook to Canada.
30. The St. Lawrence Eiver and the Thousand Islands.
Passengers who make the St. Lawrence trip from American soil usu¬
ally join the steamer at Clayton (p. 255), which is reached from New
York (340 M.) via the N. Y. C. R. R. to (233 M.) Utica and the Rome,
Watertown, & Ogdensburg R. R. thence (9-12 hrs.; through - carriages; fare
$ 8.27; comp. R. 28 a). — The Montreal steamer of the Richelieu & On¬
tario Navigation Co. leaves Toronto daily in summer at 4 p.m., and Kingston
(where it receives most of its passengers) about 6 a.m., calling at Clayton
I1/4 hr. later (fare from Clayton to Montreal $5.25). Montreal is reached
about 6.30 p.m. — Those who wish merely to visit the Thousand Islands
may do so by one of the steamers which make daily round-trips from Clayton
(fare 50c); the 'Lawrence', equipped with a powerful search-light, makes
her trip in the evening. Comp. Baedeker's Handbook to Canada.
The St. Lawrence, the outflow of the Great Lakes, has a length (from
Lake Ontario to its mouth) ot 500 M. and pours more fresh water into the
Ocean than any other river except the Amazon. It is navigable for large
vessels to Montreal and for small steamers all the way, though some of
the rapids have to be avoided by means of canals by boats ascending the