328 HI- Southern Quarters. ROME. f- Monte Testaccio.
The Via della Marmorata (PI. Ili, 16, 17) reaches the Tiber
in 6 min. from the Piazza Bocca della Verità, and skirts the river
for about 2 min., affording to the right a pleasing retrospect of the
Ponte Palatino and the Capitol. On the river-bank was the Mar-
morata, the landing-place and depót of the unwrought Carrara
marble. Opposite lies the harbour of Ripa Grande, in front of the
large Ospizio di San Michele (p. 425; ferry 10 e). Attractive re¬
trospect of the Aventine.
The street now leaves the river and leads S.E. towards the Porta
San Paolo. The former Prati del Popolo Romano, between the
street and the river, are now occupied by a new quarter of ugly
At No. 94 Via della Marmorata is the University Museo dei Gessi
(PI. Ili, 15), containing casts from antiques that are not in Rome. This
collection, useful for purposes of study, is open on "Wed. & Frid. 2-5 (2-6
in summer), Sun. 9.30 or 10-12.30 (closed on most public holidays and
July 16th-Nov, 15th).
After 6 min. the Via del Priorato from the Aventine descends
on the left (see p. 327). Just beyond this the Street is crossed
by a broad thoroughfare, leading on the left, under the name Viale
Aventino, to San Saba, Santa Prisca (p. 330), and the Circus Maximus
(p. 320), and on the right, under the name Via Galvani, to the
river, Mte. Testaccio, and the extensive Slaughter Houses (Mat¬
tatoio; tramway, see No. X, p. 4, in the Appx.).
The Monte Testaccio (PI. Ili, 15) is an isolated mound,
115 ft. in height and about 1000 paces in circumference, rising
above the Tiber, and consisting, as the name (testa = potsherd) in¬
dicates, entirely of broken pottery. It is formed of fragments of
the large earthenware jars (dolia), in which wine, oil, etc. were
imported from Spain, Africa, and other countries on the Mediter-
ranean, and which were unpacked at the neighbouring Emporium
(comp. the Pian of Ancient Rome, p. 268). The hill is now honey-
combed with cellars, in some of which wine is sold. The summit,
marked by a wooden cross, commands a once celebrated panorama,
now much injured by the new buildings of the neighbourhood.
To the N., the city, beyond it the Monti Sabatini and the isolated
Soracte. To the E. the Sabine Mts., in the background the imposing
Monte Terminillo, in the nearer chain Mte. Gennaro, at its base Monti¬
celli, farther to the right Tivoli. Beyond this chain the summits of
Monte Velino above the Lago Fucino are visible. To the S. of Tivoli
appears Palestrina. After a depression, above which some of the Volscian
Mts. rise, follow the Alban Mts. : on the buttress farthest E. is Colonna,
beyond it Frascati, higher up Rocca di Papa, Mte. Cavo, below it Marino,
finally to the right Castel Gandolfo. In the broad Campagna are the
long lines of arches of the Aqua Claudia and the Acqua Felice towards
the S.E., the tombs of the Via Appia and that of Csecilia Metella.
The Porta San Paolo lies about 5 min. beyond the Via Galvani.
Just before the gate is reached, a short side-street on the right
leads to the Protestant Cemetery.