112 Route 12. VITERBO. From Attigliano
On the first-floor of the building adjoining the Pai. Municipale on the
N. are the Municipal Library, with 50,000 vols. (librarian, Cav. Cesare
Pinzi), and the very valuable Archives, with documents dating from the
llth century on.
Passing through the archway to the right of the Palazzo Muni¬
cipale, we descend a few yards to the elegant portai of the church
of Santa Maria della Salute (13th cent.; PI. B, 3). A little to
the N., beyond the Ponte Tremoli, lies the small octagonal domed
church of Santa Elisabetta (PI. B, 3) or Santa Maria detta Peste,
with a mosaic pavement of 1470.
In the N.E. angle of the Piazza del Plebiscito, at the beginning
of the Via dell' Indipendenza, is the small church of Sant' Angelo
(PI. B, 3), on the fagade of which is a Roman sarcophagus, with the
Hunt of Meleager; above is a 16th cent, inscription in honour of
the beautiful Galiana, on whose account, as on that of Helen of old,
a war is said to have raged in 1138 (?) between noble families of
Rome and Viterbo, in which the latter were victorious. Opposite,
at the other corner of the Via dell' Indipendenza, are a lion and a
palm-tree, the cognizance of Viterbo, corresponding to a similar
group at the other end of the Piazza, at the corner of the Via San
£'■■- The Via San Lorenzo leads to the cathedral ; No. 7 in the first
side-street to the right is the interesting Palazzo Chigi (lòtti cent.).
Halfway to the cathedral we cross the little Piazza detta Morte
(PI. B, 4), with a mediseval fountain, whence a bridge leads to the
Piazza San Lorenzo (PI. A, 4), in front of the cathedral. This is
the spot where in July, 1155, Pope Hadrian IV. (Nicholas Break-
speare, an Englishman) compelled the Emp. Frederick I., as his
vassal, to hold his stirrup. To the left of the cathedral is a small
palace of the 13th century. To the right, approached by a flight
of steps, is the former Palazzo Papale (begun in 1266 and recently
restored), which has been used as the episcopal palace since the
15th century. It contains a huge hall in which, by order of Charles
of Anjou, the Conclave elected Gregory X. pope in 1270, John XXI.
in 1276, and Martin IV. in 1281. During the election of Gregory X.,
which lasted two years, the people of Viterbo locked the cardinals
into the hall and uncovered the roof to see whether hunger and
exposure would not bring them to a decision. The newly elected
popes blessed the people from the fine Gothic Loggia (1267, re¬
stored in 1904; fine view), and here also was proclaimed Conradin of
Hohenstaufen's excommunication by Clement IV. (p. 114) in 1268.
The Cathedral (San Lorenzo) is a handsome Romanesque
basilica of the 12th cent. (?), with a Gothic campanile, restored in
the 16th century.
Interior. The fantastic capitals of the columns should be noticed.
In the lst chapel on the left is a Christ with the four Evangelists (1472),
by Girol. Scacco of Verona (not by Mantegna). The 2nd chapel on the