The Second Class Hotels (Alberghi or, in smaller towns, also
Locande) are thoroughly Italian in their arrangements, and, though
generally provided with good and clean beds, are in other respects
less comfortàble than those of the first class. Their charges are of
course considerably lower: room 1-5, omnibus y2-l fr. One advan-
tage they possess is that the traveller is free to take his meals where
he pleases, though there is generally a trattoria (p. xx) connected
with the house. Morning coffee is usually taken at a café (p. xxi)
and not at the inn (where the charge is l^-l1/^ fr.). The better
houses of this class mày be visited even by ladies ; but the new-comer
should, perhaps, frequent first-class hotels only. It is quite custom-
ary to make enquiries as to charges beforehand, and in bargaining
as to the price of a room the 'servizio e candela' should not be
forgòtten. — The charges for rooms at the Hotels Garnis are similar
to those in the second-class hotels.
As matches are rarely found in hotels the guest should provide himself
with a supply of the wax-matches (cerini) sold in the streets (1-2 boxes,
10-15 e). Soap also is a high-priced 'extra'.
Money and other valuables should either be carried on the person
(p. xvi) or entrusted to the landlord in exchange for a receipt.
The Pensions mentioned in the Handbook are in every respect
reliable. They are generally conducted by ladies. They also receive
passing travellers, but as the price of déjeuner is usually (though
not universally) included in the fixed daily charge, the traveller has
either to sacrifice some of the best hours for visiting the gallerie^
or to pay for a meal he does not consume. A definite arrangement
as to cost of light and heating should be made in advance.
Private Apartments are recommended for a prolonged re¬
sidence. A rent lower than that first asked for is often accepted.
When a whole suite of apartments is hired, a written contract on
stamped paper should be drawn up with the aid of someone acquainted
with the language and customs of the place (e.g. a banker), in order
'that 'misunderstandings' may be prevented. To sign such a con¬
tract without reliable advice is distinctly dangerous. Payment of
part of the rent in advance is quite customary;but such payment
should never be made until after the landlord has fulfilled ali his
undertakings with regard to repairs, furnishing, etc. For single
travellers a verbal agreement with regard to attendance, linen, boot-
cleaning, stoves and carpets in winter, a receptacle for fuel, and
other details will generally suffice. Comp. also p. xxviii.
The popular idea of Cleanliness in Italy is behind the age. The
traveller will rarely suffer from this shorteoming in the first-class hotels
or even the better second-class hotels; but those who quit the beaten
track must be prepared for privations. Iron bedsteads should if pos¬
sible be selected, as they are less likely to harbour the enemies of
repose. Insect-powder (polvere insetticida or contro gli insetti: better
procured before leaving home) or camphor somewhat repels their ad-
vances. Between June and October the night should never be spent in
m alari al distriets, such as the Maremme, the Roman Campagna, the neigh-