506 Route 64. GALASHIELS. From London
Both routes afford charming views, the most, extensive being that from
Bemerside Hill. Bemerside has belonged to the family of Haig for seven
centuries. Between Bemerside and Dryburgh is a huge and rude Statue of
William Wallace. Abbotsford and Dryburgh can easily be included in
one day's excursion from Melrose, even by the pedestrian (carr. and pair
for the day 20-25s.).
The picturesque and extensive ruins of 'Dryburgh Abbey (adm. 1*.,
Sat. 6d.) date from the 12-14th cent, and include parts of the church, the
chapter house, the refectory, the cloisters, and the domestic buildings. Scott
(A. 1832) is interred in St. Mary's Aisle. John Gibson Loekhart (d. 1854),
Scott's son-in-law and biographer, is also buried here.
After leaving Melrose we cross the Tweed. —373 M. Galashiels
(Commercial; Abbotsford Arms; Royal; Douglas; American Com¬
mercial Agent, Mr. John Stalker), a busy town of 13,600 inhab.,
is noted for its tweeds and tartans.
From Galashiels a short branch run3 to (6M.) Selkirk, passing (2V2M.)
Abbotsford Ferry, the nearest station to (1 M.) Abbotsford (see p. 505). —
Selkirk (County, well spoken of; Fleece, commercial, R. or D. from 2s. 6d.;
Station; Town Arms) is another tweed-making town of 5700 inhab., with
statues of Sir Walter Scott and Mungo Park (see below). Coaches ply from
Selkirk every Tues., Thurs., and Sat. in summer through the lovely and
much besung valley of the Yarrow to (15 M.) •St. Mary's Loch (fare 3s.,
return 5*., driver Is.). On the way we pass (2 M.) Philiphaugh, where Leslie
and the Covenanters defeated Montrose in 1645; Bowhill, the seat of the Duke
of Buccleuch, and the ruined Newark Tower (these both on the opposite bank
of the river); (4 M.) Fou-lshiels, with a ruined cottage in which Mungo Park
(1771-1805) was born; (9 M.) Yarrow Church; and (1472 M.) Dryhope Tower
(to the right), near which we reach the beginning of the loch. The usual
goal of the excursion, Tibbie Shiels's Inn, is at the S. end of the lake,
3 M. farther on. On the W. bank is the Rodono Hotel (D. 3*.). The district
in which the loch lies is called Eltrick Forest; and a statue of James Hogg
(1770-1835), the 'Ettrick Shepherd', has been erected near Tibbie Shiels's. —
The excursion may be continued through Moffat Dale, passing the fine
waterfall called the * Grey Mare's Toil, to (15 M.) Moffat (p. 509) by coaches
running in connection with the Selkirk coaches (see p. 510).
From Galashiels to Peebles, I872 M., railway in 3/< hr. At (3V2 M.
Clovenfords (Clovenfords Hotel, R. 2*. 6d.-3*., D. 2s. 6d.), above the junction
of the Gala and Tweed, are Thomson s Vineries, which provide the London
market with immense quantities of grapes. On the other side of the
Tweed is Ashiestiel, the house where most of 'Marmion' and the 'Lay' was
written. Beyond (6 M.) Thornilee we pass the ruined Elibank Tower, on
the left. — 10 M. Walkerburn. — 12 M. Innerleithen (St. Ronan's; Traquair
Arms), a small watering-place with mineral springs, a pump room, etc.,
is the original of 'St. Ronan's Well'. — About 1 M. to the S. is Traquair
House, supposed to be the 'Tullyveolan' of 'Waverley', with a very ancient
tower. — 15 M. Cardrona.
I8V2 M.Peebles (Tontine; Cross Keys; 'Hydropathic Establishment, rebuilt,
since the fire of 1905, pens, from 10s.), an ancient town with 5800 inhab.
prettily situated on the Tweed. The old castle has disappeared, but the tow¬
ers of two venerable churches still stand. Peebles was the native place of
William (1800-83) and Robert (1802-71) Chambers, whose name is commem¬
orated in the Chambers Institute (adm. 3d.), presented to the town by
the elder brother. Part of it belongs to the old mansion of the Queens-
berry family and dates from the 16th century. The Cross Keys is believed
to be the prototype of Meg Dods's 'Cleikum Inn' in 'St. Ronan's Well'. —
About 1M. to the W. are the ruins of Neidpath Castle, finely situated on
the Tweed ("View from the top). About 372 M. farther on, on the S. side of
the Tweed, near the farm of Woodhouse, is the 'Black Dwarfs Cottage'. —
Many other pleasant excursions may be made from Peebles, and the
streams in the vicinity afford good fishing. — From Peebles we may go
on to (27 M.) Edinburgh by train via Leadburn and Eskbank (see p. 607).