to Milford. GOWER. 26. Route. 209
which is about 15 M. long and 5-6 M. broad, is picturesque enough to repay
a stay of several days; but the finest scenery, that of the S. coast, may
be fairly explored in one day's walk. It is emphatically a district for the
pedestrian, as beyond the railway-termini there is no convenient transport
for visitors (omnibuses, see below; light railway contemplated), while
many of the finest points are inaccessible except on foot. Inns are few
and far between, and those who explore the district thoroughly must
now and again be content with farm-house or coastguard accommodation.
Two-thirds of Gower are occupied by the English-speaking descendants of
Flemish or Norman colonists, who have cooped up the original Welsh
inhabitants in the N.W. corner (comp. p. 219). The churches, though rudely
built, possess various features of interest; their towers, resembling those
of Pembrokeshire (p. 219), combine the character of a campanile and a
stronghold. The student of mediteval architecture should provide himself
with Freeman's 'Notes on the Architectural Antiquities of Gower' (1850).
The antiquarian will also find much to interest him in the peninsula.
The railway-stations nearest to the centre of the Peninsula are Llan-
morlais, to the N., and Killay, on the E., both on the ramification of
the L. N. W. Railway which extends hence to Craven Arms and Shrews¬
bury (comp. p. 211). Omnibuses also ply between Swansea and several
of the villages in Gower, generally leaving Gower early in the morning
and returning about 6 p.m.
The following round of about 25 M. from the Mumbles, or 20 M. from
Caswell Bay, will give a fairly adequate idea of Gower scenery. Ample
time (9-10 hrs.) should be allowed for the excursion, as some of the
walking is rather rough. — From the Oystermouth tramway-station (see
p. 203) we follow the road back 150 yds. and take the road leading inland
(to the left), past Oystermouth Castle, a picturesque and extensive ruin of
the 14th cent, (small fee to the keeper). At the top of the hill, a few
hundred yards farther, just beyond the school, w ediverge to the left from
the direct road to Caswell Bay, in order to visit the pretty little (3/4 M.)
Langland Bay ("Langland Bay Hotel, D. 4s.; Osborne; Rotherslade, R. 2s. 6d.,
D. 3s. 6d.; lodgings), where there are a few villas. From Langland a
steep lane leads us back to the (l/» M.) main road, where we turn to the
left. 1 M. Caswell Bay ("Hotel, unpretending, R. & B. 5s.) is a charming
little sandy cove, flanked with rocks. The bathing here and at Langland
Bay is, however, rather dangerous on account of the strong outward cur¬
rents. From the hotel we follow the road for 5 min. more; then diverge
to the left through the bracken and gorse, cross a stile, and descend to
(5 min.) Brandy Cove, a small green inlet owing its name to smuggling
traditions. We cross this cove and follow the path leading round the cliffs
(easier than the cart-track over the top of the promontory) to (1/4 hr.)
Pwll-du Bay ('Poolth-dee'; Beaufort Arms, small), with its curious banks
of pebbles. Fine view of the Pwll-du Head, a bold mass of limestone on
the other side of the hay. [From Pwll-du a path leads inland through the
well-wooded Bishopston Valley to (2 M.) Bishopston (p. 211).] From the inn
we ascend a rough and steep track to (8-10 min.) the hamlet of High Pen-
nard, where we take a lane to the right (inland), following it to the left
when it bends and regaining the cliff-track near (8 min.) a farm-house, with
a pond in front of it. About 4 min. beyond the farm is a ruinous stone cattle-
shed, opposite which begins a faintly marked path, descending deviously
to the left to Bacon Hole, a cave on this side of the W. promontory of the
bay, in which large deposits of prehistoric bones were found in 1850. The
limestone cliffs along this part of the coast are very fine. We now return to
the track on the top of the cliffs (though experts, who think it worth
while, may follow a difficult and even dangerous path along their face to
two other caves) and in about 10 min. reach another stone hut, in a line
with which, to the left, is Minchin Head, easily recognised by the knob
of white limestone at the top. Below this knob is Minchin Hole, a cave
extending into the rock for a distance of 170 ft. The descent to it, over
slippery turf, requires caution and a steady head, but those who do not
care for this scramble should not miss the *View of the coast from the
top of the promontory.
Baedeker's Great Britain. 6th Edit. 14
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