174 I, TV. and E. HilU. ROME. d. Piazza Vitt. Emanuele.
Opposite is the large Palazzo Field-Brancaccio (PI. II, 26), built in
1892-96. Its extensive garden embraces the area of most of Trajan's
Thermae (comp. p. 179). — Hence to San 31artino ai Monti, see p. 179.
We follow the Via Carlo Alberto. On the left is the church
of Sant' Antonio Abbate, with a portal of the 13th century. Sant'
Antonio is the tutelary saint of domestic animals.
The Via San Vito, a cross-street to the right, leads from the Via
Carlo Alberto to the church of San Vito and the simple Arch of Gal-
lienus (PL II, 29). This honorary arch was erected in 262 by a cer¬
tain M. Aurelius Victor, in honour of the Emp. Gallienus, 'on account
of his bravery, surpassed only by his piety'. Farther on in the Via
San Vito is the Gothic church of Sant' Alfonso de' Liguori, built
by a Mr. Douglas in 1855; and beyond the Via Merulana are the
churches of Santa Prassede and San Martino ai Monti (pp. 178,179).
The Via Mazzini and Via Rattazzi lead to the left from the Via
Carlo Alberto to the Piazza Manfredo Fanti, adorned with gardens.
A fragment of the wall of Servius is preserved in this piazza (comp.
The Via Carlo Alberto ends at the large Piazza Vittorio Ema¬
nuele (PI. II, 29), which also is laid out in attractive gardens.
Here, on the left, are considerable remains of a water-tower of the
Aqua Julia, in the niches of which the so-called Trophies of Marios
(p. 229) stood until 1590. The name Trofei di Mario has been com¬
monly but groundlessly in use since the 15th century. On the
adjoining walk (to the left) is the so-called Porta Magica of the
former Villa Palombara. The cabalistic characters on the outside
contain a formula for making gold, communicated in 1680 by a
stranger to the Marchese M. Palombaro, who, however, was unable
to decipher it, and caused it to be carved in marble at the entrance
to his villa, in the hope that some passer-by might be able to solve
the riddle. — At the N. angle of the piazza rises the church of
Sant' Eusebio, re-erected in the 18th cent., with the exception of the
campanile. The fine ceiling-painting, the transfiguration of St. Euse-
bius, is one of the earliest works of Raphael Mengs.
About 4 min. to the E. of the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele is the
church of Santa Bibiana (PL II, 32), consecrated in 470, and re¬
built for the last time in 1625 by Bernini. It contains eight antique
columns. On the high-altar is a statue of St. Bibiana, a restrained
and successful early work of Bernini. To the left by the entrance
is the stump of a column, at which the saint is said to have been
scourged to death.
The street known as the Archi di Santa Bibiana leads to the
Porta San Lorenzo and the basilica of that name, which may be con¬
veniently visited at this juncture. We may return in that case by
tramway (No. 12 in the Appx.). The steam-tramway to Tivoli starts
outside the gate, to the left (p. 402).
The Porta San Lorenzo (PI. II, 32,33) stands on the site of the