Toscani, Napoletani, Cavours (long 10 c, short 71/2c); etc. — Good
Havanna Cigars (25-60 c.) and foreign Cigarettes may be bought at
the 'Spaccio Normale' (p. 130) and other large shops in Rome.
A few brands of English and French tobacco may be obtained at
the Spaccio Normale at high prices. ^- Passers-by are at liberty to
avail themselves of the light "burning in every tobacconist's, without
making any purchase.
XI. Sights, Theatres, Shops, etc.
Churches are open in the morning till 12or 12.30, and generally
again from 4 to 7 p.m. , while some of the most important remain
open the whole day (comp. p. 139). Visitors may inspect the works
of art even during divine service, provided they move about noise¬
lessly, and keep aloof from the altar where the clergy are officiating.
On the occasion of festivals and for a week or two before Easter the
works of art are often entirely concealed by the temporary decorations.
The verger (sagrestano, or nonzolo) receives a fee of 30-50 c. or up¬
wards, if his services are required.
Museums, picture-galleries, and other collections that belong
to government are usually open from 10 (9) to 3 o'clock, on week¬
days at a charge of 1 fr., and on Sundays gratis. In Rome the col¬
lections of the Vatican and the private galleries are closed on Sun¬
days and on ecclesiastical festivals. The national collections are
closed only on the holidays recognized by government, viz. New Year's
Day, Epiphany (Jan. 6th), King's birthday (March 14th), Easter Day,
Ascension Day, Festa dello Statuto (first Sun. in June), Fete de
Dieu (Corpus Domini), June 29th (SS. Peter and Paul), Assump¬
tion of the Virgin (15th Aug.), Sept. 8th (Nativity of the Virgin),
Sept. 20th (anniversary of the entry of the Italian troops in 1870,
see p. 157), Nov. 1st (All Saints' Day), Queen's birthday (Nov. 20th),
Dec. 8th (Immaculate Conception), and Christmas Day. In smaller
towns museums and galleries are also often closed during the Carni¬
val, on Palm Sunday, Whitsunday and Whitmonday, and on the day
sacred to the local patron saint.
Those who desire to study, draw, or copy in the papal museums or
private collections must procure a Permesso through their consul. For the
Papal Museums permission is granted by the Archbishop of Petra (maggior-
domo of the pope) at his office, the written application having been left
there a day or two previously. (Separate permessi required for the museums
of the Vatican and Lateran, the Vatican picture-gallery, and Raphael's
Logge.) In the case of Private Galleries, application must be made to the
proprietor in Italian or French, stating also which picture it is intended
to copy, and the size and description of the copy. In some collections
copies of the original size must not be made. As to this and similar
regulations, information should be previously obtained from the custodian.
The following form of application to the Monsgr. Maggiordomo, may be also
addressed to a principe or inarchese, the 'Revma' being in this case