15. Route. 95
like nests among the rocks (Roccabruna, Eza). Small churches and chapels,
peering from the somber foliage of cypresses, and giganUc grey pinnacles of
rock, rising proudly above the smiling plains, frequently enhance the
charms of this exquisite scenery. Finally, the vast expanse of the sea itself,
with its ever varying hues, constitutes one of the principal attractions. At
one time it is observed bathed in a flood of sunshine, at another its beauti¬
ful blue colour arrests the eye; immediately beneath the spectator, roaring
breakers are frequently visible, whilst farther off the snowy crests of the
waves are gradually lost to view in the purple distance. — The inns are
generally good, but dear.
The railway skirts the coast, and runs parallel with the high
road. Of the numerous promontories penetrated by tunnels that
oi'Voltri, the first after starting, is the most extensive. Stations
5. Pier d'Arena, Cornigliano, Sestri a Ponente, and Pegli (see
p. 94). Stat. Pra, to the 1. on the coast. Stat. Voltri, a town
with 11,000 inhab. at the mouth of the Ceruso, carries on a
considerable traffic in 'confitures.'
Beyond Voltri a long tunnel. Stat. Arenzano, surrounded by
villas in the midst of cypresses, oleanders, and aloes; beautiful
retrospect of the coast as far as Genoa. Three tunnels are next
passed through. Cogoleto is said to have been the birthplace of
Columbus (p. 92). A poor tavern here bears the inscription:
Ilospes, siste gradum. Fuit hie lux prima Columbo;
Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domust
Vnus erat mundus. 'Duo sunt', ait ille. Fuere.
Stat. Varazze, or Voragine, a town on the coast with 8000
inhab. , is an important ship-building place. On both sides of
it the coast is rocky. Huge masses of rock, cuttings, and tunnels
are successively passed.
Next stations Celle, Albissola at the mouth of the Sansobbia,
and Savona, where the line at present terminates (comp. p. 94).
Savona (*Albergo Svizzero, dilig. office, R. 2, D. 4, B. iy2,
A. 1 fr. , omnibus 3/4 fr. ; Italia, both in the Piazza of the
theatre), the most important town on the route, with 19,000 inhab.,
was the capital of the Montenotte department under Napoleon I.
The harbour, which is commanded by a fort, always presents a
busy scene. The cathedral contains several good pictures; so
also the former church of the Dominicans, especially an Adoration
of the Magi by Diirer. The handsome theatre, erected in 1853,
near which the diligence halts, is dedicated to the poet Chiabrera,
who was a native of this place. Savona was the birthplace of
the popes Sixtus IV. and Julius II. (della Rovere). Pius VII
was detained as a prisoner here for some time.
The High Road at first leads between houses, and then
approaches the sea. At the promontory of Bergeggi it is hewn
in the rock, and defended by fortifications. Churches surrounded
with cypresses, olive-plantations, and ruined castles on the pro¬
montories , above which are pine-forests, constitute the principal
features of the scenery. Spotorno, a village. Then Noli, a small
town, shaded by dense plantations of olives, and overlooked by