In all the more frequented places, good hotels of the first
class . equal in comfort to those in other parts of Europe, are
always to be found, the landlords of which are frequently German
and Swiss. Rooms 2y2—5 fr., bougies 75 c—1 fr., attendance
1 fr., table d'hote 4 fr. and so on. Families, for whose reception
the hotels are often specially fitted up, should make an agree¬
ment with the landlord with regard to pension (8—10 fr. each).
Strangers are expected to dine at the table d'hote, otherwise
the price of the room is raised, or the inmate is given to under¬
stand that it is let over his head. French spoken everywhere.
Cuisine a mixture of French and Italian.
The second-class inns are thoroughly Italian, rarely very
clean or comfortable; charges about one-half the above; no table
d'hote, but a trattoria will generally be found connected with the
house, where refreshments a la carte may be procured at any
hour. These establishments will often be found convenient and
economical by the voyageur en garcon, but are of course rarely
visited by ladies.
The best hotels have fixed charges. Attendance, exclusive of
boots and commissionaire, is charged in the bill. This is not the
case in the smaller inns, where 1 fr. per diem is usually divided
between the waiter and the facchino, or less for a prolonged
stay. Copper coins are never despised by such recipients.
Hotels Garnis are much frequented by those whose stay ex¬
tends to 10—14 days and upwards, and the inmates enjoy greater
quiet and independence than at a hotel. The charges are moreover
considerably more moderate. Attendance about ^ fr. per diem.
Lodgings, of various degrees of comfort and accommodation,
may also be procured for a prolonged residence. Here, likewise,
a distinct agreement respecting the rent should be made before¬
hand. Where a whole suite of apartments is hired, a written
contract should be drawn up with the aid of some one acquainted
with the language and customs of the place (e. g. a banker).
For single travellers a verbal agreement with regard to attendance,
linen, stoves and carpets in winter, a receptacle for coal etc.,
will generally suffice.
A few hints may be here added for the benefit of the less
If a prolonged stay be made at a hotel, the bill should be demanded
every three or four days, by which means errors, whether accidental or
designed, are more easily detected. When the traveller contemplates de¬
parting at an early hour in the morning, the bill should be obtained on the
previous evening, but not paid until the moment for starting has arrived.
It is a favourite practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, when the
hurrv and contusion render overcharges less liable to discovery.
The mental arithmetic of waiters is apt to be exceedingly faulty, though
rarely in favour of the traveller. A written enumeration of the
items charged should therefore invariably be required, and accounts rejected
in which, as not unfrequentiy happens, 'colazione, pranzo, vino, cuffe etc'
figure in the aggregate.