MOUNT .ETNA. 33. Route. 9*3
a view of the crater only, which, however, alone repays the fatigue Durir»
■settled weather, when the smoke ascends calmly and the outline of the
mountain is clear, a fine view may with tolerable certainty be anticipated
If on the other hand the smoke is driven aside by the wind which fre¬
quently prevails on the summit, the prospect is generally partially if not
Even in hot weather the traveller should on no account omit to be pro¬
vided with an overcoat or plaid, as the wind on the mountain is often bit¬
terly cold. In winter or spring, when the snow is still unmelted, a veil or
coloured spectacles will be found serviceable.
A moderate supply of provisions for the ascent should also be procured
at Catania. Those who desire the luxury of a cup of tea or coffee on the
mountain may provide themselves with charcoal at Nicolosi.
Distances. From Catania to Nicolosi by carriage in 2"l2 hrs.. returniiv
in li;4 hr. (on foot in 2>;2, back in 2 hrs.).' Mule from Nicolosi to the Casa
Inglese 6—7, on foot (not advisable) 7—8 hrs. From the < asa Inglese to tin-
crater, on foot only, in l'|2 hr.; halt on the summit and descent to the
Casa Inglese 2—2i|3 hrs. Thence to Nicolosi 4—5 hrs. The excuision is
therefore long and fatiguing, occupying 18—20 hrs.
Carriages, guides and mules. The charge for a 2 or 3-horse carriage
to Nicolosi, which remains there during the night and conveys the traveller
back to Catania on the following day, is 20—25 j., with an additional gratuity
of 3—5 1. (''tutto coinpreso", also toll-dues). One-horse carriage (not casilv
procured, as the drivers allege that the road is '--troppo bruttii", too steep,
for a single horse) 15 1. and 2—3 1. gratuity. Those who prefer returning
from Nicolosi on foot may engage a carriage for the ascent only (10—15 f.
and 1—2 1. fee). Mule to Nicolosi and back (remaining there "during the
night) 2—3 1. and 1 1. fee. (Carriage of course preferable for the return to
Catania after a fatiguing ride of 10—12 hrs., although the charges are exor¬
bitant.) — Guide S 1. and 1 1. fee; mule (guide must also be provided with
one) 5 1. Parties usually engage 2 guides and an additional mule to carry
the provisions etc.
At Nicolosi the traveller may avoid discussions with the guides by re¬
questing the assistance of the Signer Dr. Giussepe Gemellaro, a gentleman
whose obliging character is well known. Most trustworthy guides Pasquale
Gemellaro, Giuseppe Bonanno, Salcatore and Angelo Carbonara, Antonio Leo-
nardi, Antonio Nicolosi etc. Those recommended by Dr. Gemellaro niav al¬
ways be relied upon.
Inns at Nicolosi, at the entrance to the village on the r.: Loeanda
l'Etna and Loeanda di Antonio Mazzaglia; at the former the char¬
ges are extortionate; the latter is less pretending. Prices should be enquired
The excursion may perhaps be most conveniently airanged as follows :
to Nicolosi in the morning (where a guide should at once lie engaged and
refreshments for the evening ordered); excursion to the Monti Kossi ip.'JSoi
in the afternoon, supper about 6 p. m., start not later than T1,4 or 7ij2 p.
in., notwithstanding any representations to the contrary made by the guides,
in order fo allow time for repose at the Casa Inglese and ensure reaching
the summit before sunrise; in returning the Casa Inglese is quitted about
6 or 7 a. 111. and Nicolosi reached at noon. — Another and less fatiguing
mode of performing the excursion , especially when ladies are of the party,
is this : Catania is quitted early in the morning, Nicolosi left about 9 a. 111.
and the summit attained in time to witness the sunset; the night is then
spent in the Casa Inglese , the cone again ascended in the morning before
sunrise and Catania regained in the evening. The charges in this case
for guides and mules are of course higher. The Casa Inglese contains a
table , chairs , straw beds for 6 travellers and a stone on which a fire may¬
be kindled. Subscriptions for the maintenance of the casa are received by