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Italy handbook for travellers [PT.3]

(1869-1870)

p. 200

161) Route 11. TERMOLI. From Ancona
cathedral with Gothic facade bears a memorial tablet to General
'Carlo Antonio Manhes distruttore de' briganti primo cittadino
del Vasto", date 1810. A small museum in the town-hall contains
inscriptions and other relics found here. The environs, rich in
olive plantations, are still infested by banditti.
The line crosses the Trigno, Lat. Trinius. Stat. Termoli
(Venezia, in the suburbs), a fortress close to the sea, with me¬
diaeval walls, excessively- dirty. Charming prospect of the Majella
and Abruzzi. The cathedral, with Gothic facade, contains a
number of quaintly decorated saints.
From Termoli diligences and omnibus daily to Maddaloni (p. 11) on the
Rome and Naples railway, fare 151. Distance 120 M., accomplished in
about 24 hrs., with a short halt at Campobasso. The first half of the route
is monotonous. The first important place is (21 M.) Larino (Loc. di Agostino
Milano), situated in a valley, near the ruins of the ancient Larinum. The
road continues to ascend through a bleak district. Campobasso (two toler¬
able inns), 35 M. farther, capital of the province of Molise, is a place
of some importance. The steel wares manufactured here enjoy a high
reputation.
From Campobasso to Maddaloni 63 M., diligence in 9 hrs, The road,
after traversing the mountain ridge, descends into the valley of the Tamaro.
The country becomes more attractive. Post-stat. Sepino; the town lies
13|4 M. higher. About 2iJ4 M. from this point are situated the extensive
ruins of the ancient Saepinum, now Allilia. 14 M. farther, at a short dis¬
tance to the 1. of the road, is the village of Pontelandolfo, the inhabitants
of which in 1861 cruelly and treacherously assassinated 36 Italian soldiers
and 4 carabineers, whom they had received with apparent hospitality and
induced to lay down their arms. General Cialdini caused the troops to take
a summary and sanguinary- revenge. Then the village of Guardia S. Fra-
mondi. The road now descends to the beautiful valley of the Calore, which
it crosses by an iron bridge. The river is then skirted for a considerable
distance, then the Volturno, of which the Calore is a tributary. Fine views
of the valley, overtopped by the Malese Mts., which culminate in M. Miletto
{6520 ft.). The road then quits the river, turns towards the S., passes
Ducentola, and enters the valley of Maddaloni. The aqueduct under which
it passes is 2>|3 M. from the town.
The Tremiti Islands, the mythological Insulae Diomedeae, the
largest of which is S. Domenico, lie 6 M. to the N.E. of Termoli.
They now serve, as in ancient times, as places of confinement.
Beyond Termoli the country becomes less attractive. The Biferno,
Lat. Tifernus, is crossed; then stations Campomarino and Chieuti.
Beyond the Tortore, the ancient Trento, stat. Ripalta is reached.
In this neighbourhood, June 15th, 1053, the Normans conquered
and captured Pope Leo IX. and then, falling on their knees,
implored his blessing. Leo relenting imparted it, and subsequently
conferred Apulia, Calabria and Sicily on the brothers Humfred
and Robert Guiscard, a grant which was ultimately fraught with
so important consequences for Rome and the papal throne, as
well as for the Normans. To the N.E. is the Lago di Lesina,
which communicates with the sea. The line now proceeds inland,
in order to avoid the promontory of M. Gargano, a buttress of
the Apennines with several peaks 4000 ft. in height, projecting

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