148 Route 10. SALERNO. Environs
farther, is the Prefettura, past which to the 1. a narrow street
leads to the
* Cattedrale S. Matteo, erected in 1084 by Robert Guiscard
and adorned with works of art from Peestum. The restoration of
1768 has deprived the edifice of much of its simple grandeur;
it still, however, merits a visit. The steps ascend to a court,
surrounded by 28 antique columns. In the centre the granite
basin which is now in the Villa Reale at Naples formerly stood.
By the lateral walls are placed 14 ancient Sarcophagi, employed
by the Normans and their successors as Christian burying places.
The bronze doors were erected in 1099 by Landolfo Butromile.
The nave contains two ambones or reading desks and the archiepiscopal
chair, richly decorated with mosaic by Giovanni of Procida. To the r. two
antique sarcophagi with Bacchanalian representations, serving as resting-
places for archbishops. The "Crypt beneath, richly decorated with marble
and mosaics, contains, it is said, the remains of the Evangelist St. Matthew,
brought here from the East in 930; also the tomb of Margaret of Anjou,
wife of Charles of Durazzo and mother of Ladislaus and Johanna II., then
the tombs of Sigelgaita, second wife of Robert Guiscard, of their son Roger
Bursa, and of William, son of the latter, with whom the direct line of the
Norman dukes became extinct. — The chapel to the r. by the high-altar
contains the tomb of Hildebrand, afterwards Pope Gregory VII., who died
here May 25th, 1085, after he had been banished from Rome by Henry IV.
The monument was restored in 1578 by Archbishop Colonna and furnished
with an inscription. On the .monument of the Archbishop Carafa a relief
from Peestum: Rape of Proserpine. In front of a side-altar the stump of a
column, on which three saints are said to have been beheaded. The choir
contains a pavement and balustrade of ancient mosaic and two columns of
verde antico. On the altar in the Sacristy (in the I. transept); ''History
of the Old and New Testament, on numerous carved ivory tablets, dating
from 1200.
P se s t u m.
An excursion to Peestum is most conveniently undertaken from Salerno,
where the previous night has been spent. Distance about 24 M., which are
traversed in 4 hrs. If the traveller start at 4 or 5 a. m. and spend 4 or
5 hrs. at Peestum, he may return in time for the last train to Naples. The
traveller who desires to return to Naples in the evening effects a saving of
li|2—2 hrs. by availing himself of the train at Battipaglia, instead of at
Salerno. A three-horse carr., accommodating 4—5 pers., costs 25—301.
This charge ought to include the ferry of the Sele and the inevitable buona
mano, to which a trifling addition will nevertheless be expected at the ter¬
mination of the journey. The vetturino Slefano Avalone can be recom¬
mended. Refreshments should be taken from Salerno, as the osteria at
Peestum is extremely poor, and the drinking water bad. In May, 1865,
English travellers were here attacked by banditti, but in the summer of
1867, in consequence of measures adopted by the authorities the whole ex¬
cursion was regarded as safe. The environs of Salerno are in fact con¬
sidered to be more infested by brigands than any other part of Italy. As
far as Battipaglia the traveller may avail himself of the- railway (p. 175);
in this case, however, a carriage must be ordered from Salerno to meet
him at the station, and the drive cannot be commenced before 9 a. m.
Here the officer in command should be communicated with, who, if danger
is apprehended, provides the traveller with an escort, consisting of 4__6
mounted carabineers, each of whom receives 51. Those who desire to
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