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Italy handbook for travellers [PT.3]

(1869-1870)

p. 187

of Xaples. VIETRI. 10. Route. 147
the road divides, leading to the village to the r., to the monastery in
5 min. towards the 1. The latter is situated above a small valley and is
built against the rock on which the village stands. It contains about ">0
Benedictines and a seminary.
The train now traverses a beautiful district and soon affords
a glimpse of the Bay of Salerno; in 10 min. it reaches
Vietri, a charmingly situated little town, with several villas
in the vicinity. The railway, supported by galleries and passing
through four tunnels, descends rapidly hence to Salerno.
Carriages to Salerno (li(2 M.) are also here in waiting. The im¬
portunity of the drivers is often annoying. Single place i|2 1.; carriage 21.
The road descends, commanding a view of the sea, and affords a pleasant
walk. High above, on the rocks of Monte Liberatore to the 1. is the railway.
Carriage to Amalfi (p. 153).
Hotels at Salerno: -Hotel Vittoria, at the entrance to the town
from Vietri, on the 1., spacious and clean, R. 2, B. 1, D. 4, A and L. 1 1.
pension according to arrangement; "Hotel d ' A ngl e terre , a similar
establishment, more in the town with less view, charges often too high and
must be reduced by previous bargain; Sole, unpretending. Trattorie
(similar to those in Naples): "Europa; Roma. Several cafe's on the
quay, now Corso Garibaldi.
"Sea- baths (50 c), near the quay.
Carriage and boats, charges always according to arrangement; at
the hotels, as at Sorrento (p. 139), the charges are professedly fixed. Two-
horse carr. to Peestum 20—25 1., with three horses for 4—5 pers. 25—30 1.
and 1—21. gratuity. One horse carr. to Amalfi (p. 153) 5—6 1., two-horse
carr. 7—91. Single travellers may avail thejnselves of one of the swift but
somewhat uncomfortable corricoli (two-wheeled, rustic vehicles; driver stands
behind the passenger), but the condition should be made that no second
passenger be taken up by the way; to Amalfi (tutto compreso), according to
circumstances 2'fa—4 1. — Rowing or sailing boat 1—1!|2 1. per hour. Boat
to Peestum 20—25, to Amalfi 8—10 1. according to the number of
rowers.
Salerno, the ancient Salernum, delightfully situated at the N.
extremity of the bay, bounded on the E. by fertile plains, pos¬
sesses a population of 20,977, or with the contiguous villages
29,031, an archbishop, theatre, numerous residences of the aristo¬
cracy etc. The old town, rising on the slope of the so-called
Apennine, with narrow and irregular streets, recalls the period
when in the 9th and 10th centuries the Lombards, in the
11th cent, the Normans, and finally the houses of Hohenstaufen
and Anjou were masters of the place. On an eminence stand
the ruins of the ancient fortress of the Lombard princes, reduced
by Robert Guiscard only after a siege of 8 months.
The quay, or Marina, ll/t M. in length, now termed "Corso
Garibaldi, affords a beautiful walk, especially on summer evenings.
The harbour, once of some importance, is now almost entirely
choked up with sand. On the Marina stands the monument of
Carlo Pisacana, Duke of S. Giovanni, "precursore di Garibaldi'',
who in 1857 participated in the attempts to revolutionize Italy,
landed in Calabria and perished whilst attempting to escape. The
large building between the two sentry-boxes, about 100 paces
10*

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