142 Ro"te 9- CAPRI. Environs
Besides these modes of reaching Capri, the traveller may avail himself
of the market-boat which leaves Naples on the week-days at 1 p. m. (2 1.
each pers.), performing the voyage in 3—4 hrs.
If the passage be made from Sorrento, the Capo di Sorrento (>l2 hr.) is
first passed ; 5 min. later the Villa Majo, where the foundations of a temple
of Ceres are said to have teen discovered; then (10 min.) the promontory
of Massa on which stands a tower erected by the Saracens; next (20 min.)
Massa, and in 2 hrs. more Capri is reached. The Punta della Campanella
remains in sight during the whole passage. As soon as the boat reaches
the Marina di Capri women place a board to facilitate the passengers
landing. If more than the smallest coin of the realm is bestowed it
will act as an incentive to the keen-eyed beggars who infest the spot.
Mendicancy prevails here to a greater extent than in other parts of
Italy ; nor is it begging pure and simple ; dancing and singing are the atten¬
dant tortures, whilst the cry resounds, "un bajocc, Siynoria: iiccellenza!
un bajocc I"
For the excursion to the 'Blue Grotto (p. 144) l1 '■..— 2 hrs. must be
allowed. A diminutive, sunburnt boatman with a Phrygian cap, the pro¬
prietor of the skiffs built expressly for visiting the grotto (for 1 or 2 pers.
2 1., each additional pers. 1 1.), offers his services when the wind is favour¬
able (if from the E. or N. access is impossible). He usually employs a-
second rower, for whom he demands "la mancia", which is entirely
gratuitous.
Hotels in Capri: Albergo d'Inghilterra (formerly di Londra).
not to be recommended, on an eminence by the sea a short distance to the
W. of tlie landing place. In the village of Capri , 1(4 hr. walk from the
landing place (path first in a straight direction for a few paces, then to
the ]., ascending partly by steps between walls, fatiguing in hot weather):
Albergo Quisisana. English landlady, pension 7 1., well spoken of;
Albergo del Tiberio, R. 2, A. and L. l1^ 1.; a few paces farther,
Antico Albergo di Michele Pagano, of little pretension, pension
6 1,, a resort of artists who occasionally spend several months in the island;
the garden contains a magnificent palm.
Donkeys 3 1. a day and fee; guide (cicerone) unnecessary, except
where time is very limited. Boats l'is—2 1. per hour; a previous arran¬
gement should be made.
Capri, the Capreae (island of goats) of the ancients, is a small,
mountainous island of oblong form. The highest point to the W.
is the Monte Solaro, 1800 ft. above the sea-level; towards the
E. huge cliffs, 860 ft. in height, rise abruptly from the sea. At
two places only boats can safely land. The village of Capri, V4 nr-
from the landing-place, lies on the slope of the E. mountains;
Anacapri is in a much more elevated situation on the table-land
to the W. The inhabitants, about 5000 in number, who support
themselves principally by agriculture and fishing, still retain some
of their ancient peculiarities of habits and costume. They are
said to be the direct descendants of Greeks from Acarnania. The
island first came into notice under Augustus , who manifested a
great partiality for it and here founded palaces , baths and aque¬
ducts. Tiberius erected 12 villas, in honour of the 12 gods, in
the principal parts of the island, the largest of which was the
Villa Jovis (Tacit. Ann. IV. 67), after he had A.D. 27 surren¬
dered the reins of his government to Seianus ami retired hither.
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