i. Route. 25
Pontine marshes is relieved by the conspicuous Monte Circello or
Ci'roeo (p. 19), rising abruptly from the sea. To the S. W. the
Pontine islands (p. 22) Ponza and Zannone.
The steamer now proceeds seawards, leaving the coast with
the bays of Terracina and Gaeta to the E. The first land which
again becomes visible is the island of Ischia (p. 101) to the S.—
Entrance into the gulf and arrival at Naples see below and p. 27.
Arrival, a. By Railway. At the station, situated at the S.W. ex¬
tremity of the town (PI. G. 4"i, the luggage of passengers from Rome is
examined. Heavier articles may then he entrusted to one of the omnibus
conductors, who deposits them at the hotel indicated (20 c. for each box).
The traveller himself should avoid these slow and uncomfortable convey¬
ances. Fiacre (carrozzella) to the town 60 c, from midnight to sunrise 1 1.;
two-horse carr. 11. 20 c, at night l'^l. An agreement must be made re¬
garding luggage, each box about 40 or 50 c. The one-horse vehicles do not
accomodate more than 1 pers. comfortably. The facchini who transport the
luggage to the carriage are paid according to tariff, 10 c. for a travelling-bag
or hat-box, 20 c for heavier articles; a few soldi in excess of the tariff
are usually bestowed. On quitting the stat. the traveller is clamorously
assailed by drivers, touters and commissionaires ; he is recommended there¬
fore to select his hotel previous to arrival. Should the hotel selected prove
full, information will there be obtained with regard to quarters for the
night. As the fiacre quits the station, the obnoxious custom prevails of a
commissionaire ascending the box with the object of accompanying the
traveller to the hotel he has selected, and extorting a gratuity from the
landlord, under pretence that the traveller has come by his recommendation.
This practice (a remnant perhaps of the "camorra"), which of course affects
the traveller's pocket alone, should be energetically protested against.
Remonstrances at the hotel are of no avail; the only effectual remedy is to
call for the police. A second trial awaits the traveller on arriving at the
hotel. As there is no fixed tariff for luggage, an altercation with the driver
is inevitable. For a single traveller with luggage in a one-horse vehicle
1 1., for 2—4 in a two-horse carr. 2—2]j2 1. (at night more in proportion) are
ample payments. No attention should be paid to the gesticulations of the
driver, who will probably refuse the money or dash it on the ground. If
he pursues the traveller to his apartment, no course is left, but to eject him
forcibly, or, if preferred, to offer him a few additional soldi. If this proves
ineffectual, he should tie ordered to drive the traveller to the nearest police-
station (delegazione; the principal station is the Questura); or protection may
be obtained from the first, policeman (carabinieri, blue coat with three-
cornered hat; or the municipal guardia di pubblica sicurezza, a dark uni¬
form with military cap). No assistance is to be expected from the people
of the hotel, who are more likely to be in alliance with the driver than to
possess any sympathy for the traveller, whose own energy and firmness are
his best protection.
b. By Steamboat. The steamers lay to without the Porto Grande.
As soon as permission is granted to disembark, a small boat (1 1. for each
pers. with luggage; here too the most extortionate demands are usually
made, of which the traveller should take no notice) conveys the passengers
to the Dogana, by the Immacolatella, where luggage is examined. This
done, one of the Facchini della dogana places the luggage on the fiacre or
other conveyance (40 cl. Here the remarks already made (s. above) also