to Naples. CISTERN A. 2. Route. 17
In consequence of the opening of the railway this road is now used for
the local traffic only. Although the journey by carriage from Rome to Na¬
ples is in many respects preferable to the railway, and renders the transition
from the one city to the other less abrupt, yet it can hardly at present be
recommended on account of the unsettled state of the country, especially as
the lonely mountainous districts of the Roman state and the vicinity of
Gaeta have always been a favourite haunt of banditti. The diligence com¬
munication is, however, still maintained. To Velletri (p. 2) by railway;
thence daily a diligence to Terracina in 8 hrs. (fare 1 Scudo) , from which
another diligence runs by Mola di Gaeta to stat. Sparanisi; thence to Naples
by railway; 1st cl. 6 1. 60 c. ; 2nd cl. 5 1. 30 c. ; 3rd cl. 4 1. The pleasan-
test way of performing the journey (after due enquiry as to the security of
the road, and with an escort, if necessary , for the suspected portions) is
when a party of 4—6 pers. engage a vetturino. The vetturini make two
halts on the way , the first night at Cisterna, the second at Mola di Gaeta
or S. Agata, and arrive on the third day at Sparanisi in time for the last
train to Naples. At Terracina and S. Agata a halt of 3 hrs. is made for
breakfast, allowing ample time for the inspection of these places. A four-
horse carriage, accommodating 6—7 pers., from Rome to Naples costs 15—20
Napoleons. The charges are highest in spring, during the grand ceremonies
at Rome, and of course depend on the contract with the vetturino, who
usually includes hotel accommodation in his hire. The ordinary travelling
expenses of a single traveller by carriage from Rome to Naples have hitherto
been 11 scudi, or 60 1., and 1 sc. gratuity, including hotel accommodation
and meals. Good inns on this route. The malaria which prevails in the
marshy districts in summer is considered especially noxious during sleep.
The papal couriers when traversing this district are accustomed to smoke
incessantly in order to neutralize the poison of the atmosphere. — No risk
need be apprehended during the colder seasons.
The traveller quits Rome by the Porta S. Giovanni and tra¬
verses the Campagna by the Via Appia nuova, which at first
runs parallel to the ancient Via Appia, then unites with it at
the 11th migl. by the Osteria Le Fratocchie and leads to Albano.
Thence to Ariccia by the great viaduct; the palace of Chigi is
left to the 1.; two more viaducts are crossed and Genzano and
Velletri reached. Here, 31 M. from Rome, the railway turns to
the 1. towards the mountains, whilst the high road descends to the
plain to the r. and, l'/o M. from Cisterna, again unites with the
ancient Via Appia. The extensive oak forests here were once
notorious for robberies. On the height to the 1. are perceived
the villages of Cori and Norma, frequently visited from Velletri.
Further on, below Norma, stands Sermonetn on an eminence,
with an ancient castle of the Gaetani family, who thence derive
their ducal title. Towards the sea to the r. rises the isolated
Monte Circello (p. 19). Cisterna (* La Posta), Q1/^ M. from
Velletri. is a small town with a castle of the Gaetani, situated
on the last hill before the Pontine marshes are reached. It was
called Cisterna Xernnis in the middle ages and is believed to
occupy the site of the ancient Tres Tabernae.
Torre tre Ponti, 14 M. from Cisterna, is a solitary, post-
house, whence Sermoneta, 6 M. distant, may be visited. 1/2 M.
farther the road crosses the Ninfa by an ancient bridge, restore'!,
as the inscription records, by Trajan.
n.^mMTL-D- Ttalv 1IT 2,1. Edition. 9