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Italy handbook for travellers [V.1]

(1876-1882)

p. 503

356 Route 52. LUCCA. From Pisa
mentioned the Deposito di Mendicita (poor-house), established in
the Italian - Gothic Palazzo Borghi, with a lofty tower, erected
in 1413 by Paolo Guinigi, chief of one of the most powerful
families of Lucca. — Of the Libraries the most interesting are the
Archiepiscopal, containing 20 valuable MSS. and 400 rare editions,
the Library of the Chapter with about 500 MSS., and the Biblio-
teca Reale, in the Via S. Giorgio, with MSS. (including Latin
poems of Tasso, written by his own hand) and early specimens of
printing. The Archives are also very valuable.
A spare hour should be devoted to a *Walk on the Ramparts,
which afford a succession of pleasant views of the town with its
numerous towers, and of the beautiful mountains in the vicinity.
In the grounds on the S. side is the monument of Charles III. of
Spain (PL 15; B, 3), erected by his grand - daughter the Duchess
Marie Louise, in 1822. A little to the E. of it is a pleasant cafe
(PL C, 4).
The Environs of Lucca are beautiful, and many of the pleasant villas
are comfortably furnished for the reception of strangers, but in summer
the country is hot and destitute of shade.
The traveller should visit the (3 M.) royal :Villa di Marlia, with
its beautiful grounds, fine points of view, and fountains, resembling Marly
at, Paris (whence the name), and with a Greek chapel containing old
paintings, etc. (permission must be obtained at Lucca). The road thither
leads by the Porta S. Maria (see below).
On the road to Viareggio, about 6 M. to the W., near the Lake of
Massaciuccoli, are situated the Roman ruins known as the * Bagni di
Nerone, with beautiful environs. — The Aqueduct to the S. of Lucca, with
its 459 arches, recalling the Campagna of Rome, is worthy of notice.
About 15J/2 M. to the N. of Lucca, in a hilly district, lie the Baths
of Lucca (diligence from June to September several times daily in 2!/2
hrs. , fare 3 fr.; carr. in 2 hrs., fare 15 fr.). We quit the town by the
Porta S. Maria (PI. E, 1). The excellent road was constructed by the
Princess Elisa. A road to the right diverges to the Villa Marlia (see above).
Farther on we reach the Serchio, a stream which is generally very low
in summer, but sometimes swells to a violent torrent, and is confined by
embankments for a long distance. The road ascends the left bank of
the stream, and passes the village of Moriano. We now traverse charm¬
ing hill-country, passing the opposite villages of Val d'Ottavo, Diecimo,
and Borgo a Mozzano. Immediately above Borgo is the bridge della Mad-
dalena, which is said to have been built in 1322 by Castruccio; it is
sometimes called the Ponte del Diavolo, from the peculiarity of its con¬
struction, and is hardly practicable for carriages. About 1 M. beyond it
the road enters the valley of the Lima, another stream which is nearly
dry in summer, and which is crossed near Farnoli by a suspension-bridge
constructed in 1860. Between this point and the baths there are roads
on both banks of the river.
The Bagni di Lucca, which were known in the middle ages, with
springs varying in temperature from 86° to 129° Fahr., consist of several
different villages in the valley of the Lima, connected by shady walks,
and containing 9200 inhab. Ponte a Serraglio, the chief of these vill¬
ages, which we reach first, is picturesquely situated on the bend of the
rivulet, and contains the post-office, and the best hotels, baths, and lodg¬
ing-houses. C'Pagninis Hdtel d'Europe et d*Amh'ique, R. 3, D. 4, L. and
A. 11/2. 'pension' 8 fr.; "Peru's Hdtel New York, and Grand Hdtel des Bains
de Lucques, formerly Croce di Malta, similar charges; charges lower in Sep¬
tember. Cafis Posta and Italia, in the Piazza del Ponte. Casino, with bil¬
liard, reading, and ball rooms. Physicians, Dr. Giorgi and Dr. Marchi.

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