354 Route 52. LUCCA. From Pisa
supported by ten columns, of which the shafts and some of the capi¬
tals are probably ancient. In the left aisle a monument to Giov.
Farina (d. 1847). — Adjoining the left transept is a venerable Baptis¬
tery, the roof of which was renewed during the Gothic period.
A few paces from this church is the Piazza Grande (PL C,
D, 3), where a Monument by Bartolini was erected to the Duchess
Marie Louise in 1843, in recognition of the service rendered by her
to the town in constructing an aqueduct in 1823-32.
In this piazza is situated the Palazzo Pubblico (PL 10 ; C, 3),
formerly Ducale, begun in 1578 from designs by Ammanati, but
still incomplete. On the first floor is a Picture Gallery (open daily
10-2, closed on Sundays and festivals).
I. Room: 7. Guido Reni, Crucifixion; 20. Tintoretto, St. Mark releasing
a slave; 22. Tintoretto, Portrait; 29. Borgognone, Battle; 34. Marco di
Tiziano, Madonna with Christ and St. Catharine. *39. Fra Bartolommeo,
Madonna della Misericordia, with portraits of the Moncalieri family, of
1515 (formerly in S. Romano): — 'The classic movement of the principal
figure, the varied but always elegant attitudes and action of the remain¬
der are almost matchless instances of the mode in which scientific cal¬
culation gives nature as a result. In most of the minutiae unusual power
of observation is revealed. Nothing can be more pleasing than the man¬
ner of dividing the fingers with their play suggesting unconsciousness.
Admirable are the draperies in which the folds are concentrated on the
bends' (C. & C). — 44. Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family (replica in the
Palazzo Pitti); 50. Ligozzi, Madonna appearing to S. Dominicus. *59. Fra
Bartolommeo, God the Father with Mary Magdalene and St. Catharine of
Siena, 1509 (formerly in S. Romano): — 'In this most admirable pro¬
duction for feeling as well as form, a special attractiveness is created by
colouring redolent of Venetian richness and brilliancy, and by atmosphere
successfully attained in gradations of landscape-tints, and by chiaroscuro
after the method of Da Vinci in the Mona Lisa, or of Raphael in the
portrait of Leo the Tenth1 (G. & C). — 72. Sodoma, Christ. — II. Room:
1. Domenichino, Samson; 8. Bronzino, Portrait; 13. Tintoretto, Portrait —
III. Room- 3. Beccafumi, Moderation of Scipio; Vasari, 6. St. Eustace,
7. Mary treading serpents under her feet, 8. St. Blaise. — The other
rooms contain modern pictures by Michele Ridolfi (of Lucca, d. 1853), Nocchi
(Aurora), Giovannetti, Camuccini, and others.
Not far from the Piazza Grande (in the Via della Rotonda, the
first side-street to the right) is the church of S. Alessandro, a simple
structure completed before 1080, with fine antique columns. —
A little farther on, also in the Via della Rotonda, at the end of
the street diverging to the left opposite the 'Croce di Malta' hotel,
is situated —
S. Romano (PL 8; C, 3), which existed as early as the 8th
cent., but was remodelled in bad taste in the 17th by Vincenzo
Buonamici. At the back of the high-altar is the monument of St.
Romanus, with a Pieta above, and a recumbent figure of the saint
below, with painted armour, by Matteo Civitali.
We now return to the Piazza Grande, and proceed to the left to
the venerable church of —
S. Michele (PL 6; D, 6), founded in 764 by Teutprandus and
his wife Gumpranda, with an over-decorated facade of 1288, rising
bigh above the nave, and surmounted by a figure of the angel