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Italy handbook for travellers [V.1]

(1876-1882)

p. 498

LUCCA. 52. Route. 351
The octagonal church of 5. Sepolcro (PL 35; E, 5), dating from
the 12th cent., is now entirely restored. — A house on the Lung-
Arno Galileo , farther on, bears a tablet recording that the great
astronomer Galileo Galilei was born there (in 1564, d. 1642).
The only relics of ancient Pisae are remains of baths (Bagni
di Nerone) near Porta Lucca (PL D, 1). The house where they
are to be seen is indicated by an inscription.
Environs. Outside the Porta Nuova, between the Maltraverso Canal
and the right bank of the Arno, about Vfe M. in the direction of the sea, is
situated the Cascine S. Rossore, a farm founded by the Medici, with fine
plantations of pines, now a royal shooting-lodge.
On the coast, about l'/2 M. farther, lies II Gombo, an unpretending sea¬
bathing place, commanding a beautiful view. The poet Shelley was
drowned here on 7th July, 1822. His friend Byron afterwards caused his
remains to be burned, and the ashes deposited near the pyramid of Cestius
at Rome.
The Monti Pisani, a range of hills to the E., are very picturesque;
among them, about 5 M. from the town, in the Valle dei Calci, lies La
Certosa, or the Carthusian Abbey, a fine structure of the year 1367, with
church and cloisters, restored in 1814. — To the right above it is La
Verruca, a mountain 1765 ft. above the sea-level, crowned with ruins of
a castle of the 15th cent, and commanding a delightful prospect.
About 3 M. S.W. of Pisa, on the old post-road to Leghorn, to the right of
the railway, in the direction of the Arno and opposite S. Rossore, is situated
the ancient basilica of *S. Pietro in Grado, erected before the year 1000,
containing beautiful antique columns and capitals, occupying the spot,
according to tradition, where St. Peter first landed in Italy. It was
formerly much frequented as a pilgrimage-church. The faded paintings
in the interior are of the 14th century. The ancient estuary of the Arno,
with the harbour of Pisa, must once have been at this spot, before the
present coast was formed by alluvial deposits.
52. From Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja.
61 M. Railway in 4-4V2 hrs. (fares 8fr. 60, 5fr. 90, 4fr. 10c; express
9 fr. 5, 6 fr. 35 c). The express is joined at Pistoja.
The line intersects the fertile plain between the Arno and
Serchio. — 33/,j M. Bagni di San Giuliano, at the base of the
Monti Pisani, known to the ancients as Aquae Calidae Pisanorum,
are much frequented in summer. II Pozzetto is the warmest spring
(104° Fahr.), Bagno degli Ebrei the coolest (82°). Many Roman
antiquities have been found here. At (S1^ M.) Rigoli the line ap¬
proaches the Serchio, and beyond (8 M.^Ripafrotta describes a com¬
plete semicircle round the beautifully-formed Monte S. Giuliano,
which, as Dante says (Inferno, xxxiii. 30), prevents the two towns
of Pisa and Lucca from seeing each other. — 13 M. Lucca.
Lucca. — "Crock di Malta (PI. a; C, 2, 3); "L'Universo (PI. b; D,
3); Campana, or Posta (PI. c; C, 3); Albergo <fe 'Trattoria Corona, in
the Via Pozzotorelli, near the Piazza Grande; Alb. & Ristor. del Sole,
well spoken of.
Lucca, formerly the capital of the duchy of that name and
now of a province, with 21,300 inhab. (incl. suburbs, 68,600), is
an antiquated place situated in a fertile plain, with well-preserved

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