S. Zeno Maggiore. VERONA. 35. Route. 205
Tedeschi, with a painted facade, and the church of S. Maria della
Scala (PL E, 3), with a portal by Fra Giocondo. It also contains
some frescoes of the school of Pisanello (in the belfry, to the right
of the high-altar) and other paintings.
Immediately to the S. of the Arena stands the Municipio (PL D,
4; formerly the guard-house), begun in 1836, adjoining which is
the Gran Guardia Antica (PL D, 4; now the corn-magazine and
agricultural exhibition), or old guard-house, begun in 1609 by
Dom. Curtoni, a nephew of Sammicheli. Adjacent is the Portone,
an old gate with a tower. Opposite the Municipio is the spacious
Palazzo Sparavieri, formerly Guastaverza (by Sammicheli), with
the cafes mentioned at p. 199.
In the street to the right of the door is the Teatro Filarmonico
(PL C, 4). In the court towards the Piazza Bra, under the ar¬
cades erected by Pompei in 1745, is situated the valuable Museo
Lapidario, collected and described by Scipione Maffei, containing
Roman, Greek, and Arabic inscriptions, and ancient and mediaeval
sculptures. The custodian lives in a side-street at the back of the
theatre, No. 7.
Passing through the gate we reach the Corso Vittorio Emma¬
nuele (PL C, B, 4, 5), in which, at the corner of the Strada di S.
Antonio, is a modern Statue of Michele Sammicheli, 'grande nella
architettura civile e religiosa, massimo nella militare', by Trojani.
At the end of the Corso stands the Porta Nuova (PL B, 6), a fine
work by Sammicheli. Outside this gate lies the Stazione Porta Nuova
From the Porta Nuova an avenue of trees leads N.W. to the
*Porta Stuppa (or del Palio; PL A, 4), the finest of the gates of Ve¬
rona, erected by Sammicheli. We then follow the Corso di Porta Palio,
and turn into the second cross-street on the left, in which stands —
S. Bernardino (PL A, 3; entrance from the E. corner through
a pleasing court; if the church-door is closed, ring in the corner to
the left, adjoining the church), a former monastery-church of the
Interior. The 4th chapel to the right is adorned with ceiling-frescoes
and scenes from the life of St. Anthony by Domen. Morone. The Cappella
della Croce (5th to the right) contains (on the right) a Lazarus by Badile
and Cure of those possessed with devils by Paolo Veronese, and (on the left)
Christ taking leave of his mother by Caroio, and paintings by Giolfino.
At the high-altar is a Crucifixion by Fr. Morone (1698). To the right
of the high-altar is the entrance to the "Cappella dei Pellegrini, by Sam¬
micheli, one of the finest of the circular buildings of the Renaissance,
with the antique forms cleverly and beautifully executed. In the choir,
to the left, is a Madonna with saints, by Benaglio. The nave is adorned
with figures of SS. Bernardino and Francis (to the left) and of SS. Bona-
ventura and Ludovico (over the portal), executed by Moroni or Liberate.
To the N. of this point lies *S. Zeno Maggiore (PL A, 2) the
finest Romanesque church in N. Italy, distinguished for its noble
proportions. The nave in its present form was begun in 1139, the
choir dates from the 13th century. The church was lately restored.