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Italy handbook for travellers [V.1]

(1876-1882)

p. 281

172 Rotde26. STRESA. Lago Maggiore.
who shows the garden with equal dispatch for a similar fee. Ad¬
joining the chateau is the *H6tel du Dauphin, or Delf.no (R. 2 fr.
and upwards, D. 4, 'pension' 8-9 fr.). 'Pension' may also be ob¬
tained at the Cafe-Restaurant delf Isola Bella. Excursion of 2 hrs.
by boat to the other islands with two rowers, 5 fr.
The *Isola Madre on its S. side resembles the Isola Bella,
and is laid out in seven terraces with lemon and orange-trellises ;
on the upper terrace is an uninhabited 'Palazzo' (beautiful view).
On the N. side, there are charming walks in the English style, with
most luxuriant vegetation (fee 1 fr.). — The Isola dei Pescatori
is entirely occupied by a small fishing-village, the single open
space being just sufficient for drying the nets.
The scenery around the Borromean Islands rivals that of the Lake of
Como in grandeur, and perhaps surpasses it in softness of character. Monte
Rosa is not visible; the snow-mountains to the N.W. are the glaciers and
peaks of the Simplon; of the nearer mountains the most conspicuous are
the white granite-rocks near Baveno (p. 29). The traveller coming from
the N. cannot fail to be struck with the loveliness of these banks, studded
with innumerable habitations, and clothed with southern vegetation (chest¬
nuts, mulberries, vines, figs, olives); the extensive lake with its deep blue
waters and beautiful girdle of snowy mountains combining the stern
grandeur of the High Alps with the charms of a southern clime. Rousseau
at one time intended to make the Borromean Islands the scene of his
'Nouvelle Heloise', but considered them too artificial for his romance, in
which human nature is pourtrayed with such a masterly hand.
The steamboat now steers S. to —
Stresa. — Hotels: -Hotel des Iles Borromees, with beautiful garden
and diligence-office, 72 M. from the landing-place, R. from 3, B. I72,
L. and A. 2, D. 5fr., 'pension' (room 2-3 fr. extra) in summer 772-972, in
winter 6-7 fr.; '"Hotel de Milan, with garden, near the steamboat-pier,
R. 21/2, D. 472, L. and A. I72, 'pension' 6-7fr. — Albergo Reale Bolon-
garo, Italian, well spoken of; Italia, R. and L. 2-3, B. 1, D.4, 'pens.' 6-7fr.
Boat (barca) with one rower 2fr. for the first hour, and 50 c for each
additional 72 hr. Comp. p. 168.
Carriage. To Domo d'Ossola with one horse 15-20fi\, with two horses
30-35 fr.; to Arona with one horse 6fr.; carriages for the Simplon route
to Brieg may also be procured. — Diligence over the Simplon to Brieg
daily (Messagerie in 14, Courriere in 1472hrs.); fare 23fr. 15, coupe 30fr.80c
Stresa (1200 inhab.) is situated on the coast, opposite the Isola
Bella. The handsome Rosminian Monastery halfway up the moun¬
tain is now a college. Beautiful cypresses in the Churchyard. Among
the finest villas in the environs are the Villa Bolongaro, the pro¬
perty of the Duchess of Genoa, by the church, and the Villas Ca¬
sanova, Imperatori, Collegno, and Durazzo. —Ascent of Monte
Motterone, see p. 173.
As the boat steers its course along the W. bank, the con¬
struction of the high-road, in many places supported by piers of
masonry, attracts attention owing to the difficulties which had to be
overcome. The banks gradually become flatter, and Monte Rosa makes
its appearance in the W. The next place on the W. bank is —
Belgirate (*Grand Hotel and Pension Belgirate), with 700 in¬
hab. , surrounded by the villas Fontana, Principessa Matilda,
Pallavicini, and others. — Then follow Lesa and Meina (Albergo

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