First Class Hotels, comfortably fitted up, are to be found at
all the principal resorts of travellers in Northern Italy, most of them
having fixed charges: room 2y2-5 fr., bougie 75 c. to 1 fr., atten¬
dance (exclusive of the 'facchino' and porter) lfr., table d'hote
4-6 fr. The charge for dinner does not include wine, which is
usually poor and dear. For a prolonged stay an agreement may
generally be made with the landlord for pension at a more moder¬
ate rate. Visitors are expected to dine at the table d'hote; other¬
wise the charge for rooms is apt to be raised. The cuisine is a
mixture of French and Italian. The charge for the use of the hotel-
omnibus from the station to the hotel is so high (l-l1/^ fr-)> that
it is often cheaper to take a cab. It is also easier for those who use
a cab to proceed to another hotel, should they not like the rooms
offered them. Rooms on the ground-floor should be avoided.
The Second Class Hotels are thoroughly Italian in their ar¬
rangements, and are rarely very clean or comfortable. The charges
are little more than one-half of the above. They have no table
d'hote, but there is generally a trattoria connected with the house,
where refreshments a la carte, or a dinner a prezzo fisso, may be
procured at any hour. Morning coffee, especially in the smaller
towns, is usually taken at a cafe" and not at the inn. It is everywhere
customary to make enquiries beforehand as to the charges for
rooms, not forgetting the servizio e candela. These inns will often
be found convenient and economical by the voyageur en garcon,
and the better houses of this class may be visited by ladies; but
the new-comer should frequent hotels of the first class only.
The Pbnsions of Venice and Florence also receive passing tra¬
vellers, but as the price of dejeuner is usually (though not uni¬
versally) included in the fixed daily charge, the traveller has either
to sacrifice some of the best hours for visiting the galleries or to
pay for a meal he does not consume.
Hotels Garnis are to be found in most of the larger towns,
with charges for rooms similar to those in the second-class hotels.
Private Apartments are recommended for a prolonged stay.
A distinct agreement as to rent should be made beforehand. When
a whole suite of apartments is hired, a written contract on stamped
paper should be drawn up with the aid of some one acquainted
with the language and customs of the place (e.g. a banker), in
order that 'misunderstandings' may be prevented. For single tra¬
vellers a verbal agreement with regard to attendance, linen, stoves
and carpets in winter, a receptacle for coal, and other details will
generally suffice. Comp. p. xxvi.
Money and other valuables should either be carried on the per¬
son or entrusted to the landlord in exchange for a receipt.
The popular idea of cleanliness in Italy is behind the age, dirt being
perhaps neulralised in the opinion of the natives by the brilliancy of