in the second class. Passengers who are too ill to partake of these re¬
pasts are provided with lemonade, etc., gratuitously. Refreshments may
of course be procured at other hours on payment.
Fees. The Stewart expects 1 fr. for a voyage of 12-24 hrs., but more
if the passenger has given unusual trouble.
Embarkation. Passengers should be on board an hour before the
advertised time of starting. The charges for conveyance to the steamboat
(usually 1 fr. for each person with luggage) are fixed by tariff at all the
sea-ports, and will be found in the Handbook. Passengers should there¬
fore avoid all discussions on the subject with the boatmen, and simply
direct them to row 'al Vaticano', 'alia Bella Venezia', or whatever the
name of the vessel may be. On the way, the boatmen often make demands
extravagantly in excess of the tariff, such as, 'Signore, sono cinque lire!'
— to which the passenger may simply reply, 'avanti!' On arriving at
the vessel, payment should not be made until the traveller with all his
luggage is deposited on deck. The wild gesticulations of the boatman,
who has perhaps calculated upon the credulity of his passenger, but re¬
ceives no more than his due franc (which is ample remuneration), may
be enjoied with serenity from the deck, as on that 'terra sacra' disputes
are strictly prohibited.
The passenger gives up his ticket on board, receives the number of
his berth, superintends the stowing away of his luggage, and finally repairs
to the deck to observe the progress of the vessel as it quits the harbour,
of which a line view is generally obtained.
Diligences. Corrieri are the swifter conveyances which carry
the mails, and accommodate two or three passengers only at
high fares. Diligenze, the ordinary stage-coaches, convey tra¬
vellers with tolerable rapidity, and generally for the same fares
as similar vehicles on other parts of the continent. They are in
the hands of private speculators, and where several run in com¬
petition the more expensive are to be preferred. When ladies
are of the party the coupe (one-third dearer) should if possible
be secured. The drivers and hostlers generally expect a few soldi
at the end of each stage.
Carriages. Those who travel in a hired carriage of their own
are of course much more independent than diligence passengers.
On the more frequented routes a carriage with one horse may gener¬
ally be hired for 3/4—1 fr., and on the less frequented for 1/2—3/4
fr. per English mile.
An Italian never walks if he can possibly drive; to him it is
an inscrutable mystery how walking can afford pleasure. The re¬
mark has been frequently made to the Editor, Hei t signore e va a
piedi?!' In the more frequented districts, however, such as the
environs of Naples, the inhabitants are accustomed to this mania of
travellers from the north. Walking excursions in other parts of
Italy also have their peculiar attractions, and among other advan¬
tages that of procuring for the pedestrian the enviable reputation
of being a pittore, or needy individual from whom little is to be
Prolonged and fatiguing walking-tours, such as are undertaken
in more northern climates, will be found impracticable in Italy.
Cool and clear weather should if possible be selected, and the