368 Environs of Rome. SUBIACO. Sabine Mts.
road skirting the left bank of the Anio on the slopes of M. Ripoli
and M. Spaccato. About 1 M. from the gate a road diverges to the
left to Castel Madama (see below); here we keep to the right. The
arches of the venerable Aqua Marcia, and soon afterwards remains
of the Aqua Claudia and the Anio Vetus become visible. About
4 M. from the town are (1.) the ruins of the ancient Empulum. now
Ampiglione, and 1 M. farther those of Sassula, beyond which a
lonely district is traversed. Below Siciliano the road turns to the
right to Gerano, a village with a poor osteria.
The path now ascends the heights, whence a line view of the
mountains and valleys as far as Olevano (p. 372) is disclosed. The
villages to the left are Canterano and Rocca Canterano, to the right
Rocca S. Stefano and Civitella. After frequent ascents and descents
on the mountain-slopes, and a succession of fine views of the valleys
in the vicinity, the valley of the Anio and Subiaco below suddenly
come into view beyond the last defile.
The Carriage-Road leaves Tivoli hy the Porta S. Angelo, and
follows the right bank of the Anio. On the right, after the first
mile, are seen a few arches of the Aqua Claudia, and shortly after¬
wards the Acqua Pia, the arches of which are frequently visible.
After 3 M. a road diverges to the left to the lofty S. Polo, whence
Monte Gennaro may be ascended (see p. 373). Farther on is the
loftily situated village of Castello Madama (1460 ft.), which has
long been visible; then the ruins of the old castle of Saccomuro.
About 7*/2 M. from Tivoli, we reach Vicovaro, the ancient Varia,
which possesses interesting walls of travertine-blocks, and the octa¬
gonal, late-Gothic chapel of S. Giacomo (containing a miracle-work¬
ing image of the Madonna), designed in the 16th cent, by Simone,
a pupil of Brunellesco. Beyond Vicovaro the road divides, leading
to the left to the village of Liceuza (p. 374), and to the right hy
the river to Subiaco. Cantalupo, the Mandela of Horace (p. 374),
situated on a rock, lies on the left.
About 172 M. from Vicovaro we pass a monastery of -S. Co-
simato, and soon afterwards cross the Licenza, an affluent of the
Anio. On the left bank of the river opens the valley of Sambuci,
through which Siciliano and the above-described pedestrian-route
from Tivoli to Subiaco are reached. Above the valley lies the village
of Saracinesco, which soon becomes visible. It is said to have been
founded by the Saracens. The inhabitants wear a picturesque cos¬
tume. Midway between Tivoli and Subiaco stands the Osteria della
Ferrata. Farther on lies Roviano, opposite to which is Anticoli on
the left bank. Beyond Roviano the Via Valeria diverges to the left
to Arsoli and the Lago di Fucino (see Baedeker's Southern Italy).
The valley of the Anio now expands picturesquely, and again
contracts at Agosta. To the left lies Cervara on a lofty rock • on
the right Canterano and Rocca Canterano. Subiaco, charmingly
situated amidst wood and rock, now soon becomes visible.