Sabine Mts. TIVOLI. Environs of Rome. 363
ancient Velitroe, a town of the Volsci which became subject to Rome in
338, celebrated for its wine, is picturesquefy situated on a spur of Monte
Arlemisio. The town (12,000 inhab.), with its narrow and crooked streets,
is the residence of the bishop of Ostia. The loggia of the Palazzo Lance-
lolli commands an extensive 'view. — The railway-station (p. 375) is V2 M.
from the town ; five trains daily, fares 4 fr. 75, 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 40 c.;
express 6 fr. 40, 4 fr. 30 c.
The Sabine Mountains.
That chain of the Apennines which descends abruptly and bounds the
Roman plain on the E., named Sabine Mts. from their ancient inhabitants,
is replete with interest for lovers of the picturesque. The formation of
these mountains is limestone, differing entirely from that of the volcanic
Alban Mts., and their height, is much greater, attaining to 4200 ft. Owing
to the want of railway-communication, the characteristics of city-life which
produce an unpleasing impression at Frascati and Albano are little known
here, except at Tivoli. although attempts at extortion are occasionally
made. — As a rule the Inns are good and not expensive, but enquiry as to
charges should be made beforehand; usual charge for board and lodging
5 fr. , and 1/2 fr. gratuity.
Those whose time is short must be satisfied with a visit to Tivoli; but,
if possible, four days at least should be devoted to the Sabine Mts., and
may best be spent as follows: 1st day, by Frascati to Pedestriua ; 2nd, to
Olevano; 3rd, to Subiaco; 4th, to Tivoli; 5th, back to Rome. The whole
trip may be accomplished by carriage, but some of the excursions at least
should be made on foot or on donkey-back. The public conveyances are
not recommended when ladies are of the party, in which case a private
carriage should be hired. Tivoli affords the best summer quarters, but
Subiaco and Olevano are also pleasant.
From Rome to Tivoli, 17 M. One-horse carriage about 20 fr., fee 2 fr.,
two-horse 30 fr., fee 5 fr. ; the hirer should expressly stipulate that a
digression to Hadrian's villa be included in the fare. The charges are
rather higher about Easter. The carriages at the hotels are dearer (40-
50 fr.), but they drive more rapidly, a great advantage in hot and dusty
The Vetturini, whose vehicles are uninviting, convey passengers to
Tivoli twice daily, starting from No. 124 Monte Citorio (booking-office No. 15
Vicolo della Guardiola) at 4.30 a. m. and at 2.30 p.m., reaching Tivoli in
4-5 hrs. , and returning from Tivoli at the same hours ; fare S'/z fr. (In
the height of summer a carriage sometimes starts from Rome at 11.30 p.m.,
arriving in Tivoli^about 5 a.m.)
Those who wish to visit Hadrian's villa, the grottoes, cascades, and
Villa d'Este, and return to Rome in the evening, should start at daybreak.
Tibur, with its shady valleys and murmuring cascades, was the fa¬
vourite summer-resort of the Romans in the time of Horace. A fine day
in April or May, when the vegetation is at its freshest beauty, is the best
time for this excursion.
Rome is quitted hy the Porta S. Lorenzo (p. 184), immed¬
iately beyond which is the church of that name on the right; the
road then descends into a ravine, and at the Osteria di Pietralata
crosses the railway to Foligno. Fine retrospect of Rome and St.
Peter's. The route, which is generally identical with the ancient
Via Tiburtina, crosses the Anio, here called the Teverone, by the
Ponte Mammolo at the 4th milestone. The river rises on the moun¬
tains near Filettino, passes Subiaco, Vicovaro, and Tivoli, where
it forms the celebrated cascades, and falls into the Tiber at the