362 Environs of Rome. NEMI.
S.W. bank of the Lago di Nemi, is also much visited in summer,
but there are no good inns, and intermittent fever is not uncommon
here. In the piazza, opposite the fountain, there is a good osteria.
The wine of Genzano is esteemed. The place presents no attraction
beyond its fine situation. The best view of the lake is from the
garden of the Palazzo Cesarini, which slopes rapidly towards the
water (entrance to the left, opposite the palace; admission granted
on application at the palace). — At Genzano, on the 8th day after
Corpus Christi, is celebrated the famous Infiorata di Genzano, or
flower-festival, consisting of a procession through a street carpeted
with (lowers, followed by fireworks and merry-makings. The festival
has been revived after an intermission of some years , but does not
take place every year.
The *Lago di Nemi (1066 ft.) is an extinct crater, about 3 M.
in circumference, and like the Alban lake, which lies 100 ft. lower,
is of considerable depth (328 ft.), and is also drained by an artificial
emissarius. The water is beautifully clear , and rarely ruffled by
wind. The precipitous lava-slopes of the crater, 328 ft. in height,
are carefully cultivated. In ancient times it was called the Lacus
Nemorensis, and sometimes the 'Mirror of Diana', from a temple, of
which substructions have been discovered below Nemi, and from a
nemus , or grove sacred to that goddess, whence the present name
is derived. Tiberius (or Trajan) constructed a magnificent vessel
here , a beam of which is preserved in the Museo Kircheriano at
Rome (see p. 152). This exquisite lake is the gem of the Alban Mts.
From Genzano to Nemi 2 M.; by the Palazzo Cesarini we follow
the road to the right, through the town, and past the church of S.
Annunziata. The pleasant road skirts the upper margin of the
lake, affording several fine views. — A footpath descends to the lake
from S. Annunziata, and ascends again near the mills below Nemi.
Nemi is a small mediteval town with an ancient fort. The inn
(Trattoria Desanctis, tolerable, bargaining advisable) possesses a
small verandah which commands a delightful *View of the lake
and the castle of Genzano, of an old watch-tower beyond theni.
and of the extensive plain and the sea.
From Nemi to the (l'/2 l>r0 Monte Cavo (p. 358) a guide is
necessary on account on the intricacy of the forest-paths (1-1 '/2 ir-)•
Albano is a little farther distant.
From Genzano we may proceed in 1 hr. (2 M. by the road, and then
to the left; see Map, p. 353) to Civita*Lavinia, the ancient Lanuvium,
celebrated for its worship of Juno Sospita, situated on a W. spur of the
Alban Mts. At the W. end of ttie town are a few remains of the ancient
walls; in the piazza, a sarcophagus and several fragments from tombs and
villas in the neighbourhood. The town, a poor, insignificant place, com¬
mands fine views of the Campagna towards the sea. Below it, l'/2 M. distant,
is the Civita Lavinia railway-station on the Rome and Naples line: three
trains daily, fares 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 90 c.
On the road, about 5'/-2 M. farther (7y2 M. from Genzano) lies Velletri,
which may also be reached by a nearer and more picturesque route in
l'/2 hr., with a guide. Velletri (Gallo, Campana, both with trattorie), the