he will afterwards agree to accept. In small places it is quite usuai
to agree on a pension charge, including wine, even for a stay of only
one day. — Gratuities, see p. xii. — Matches are seldom provided in
these inns. Wax-matches (cerini) are sold in the streets (l-2boxes, 5c).
The recommendations etc of landlords as to hotels in other towns
should be disregarded. They are not made with a single eye to the
interests of the traveller.
Money and other valuables should either be carried on the per-
son (p. xiv) or entrusted to the landlord in exchange for a receipt.
The PENSioNs'of Rome and Siena also receive passing travellers,
but as the price of déjeuner is usually (though not universally) in-
cluded in the fixed daily charge, the traveller has either to sacrifice
some of the best hours for visiting the galleries or to pay for a meal
he does not consume.
Private Apartments are recommended for a prolonged res¬
idence. A distinct agreement as to rent should be made beforehand.
"When a whole suite of apartments is hired, a written contract on
stamped paper should be drawn up with the aid of some one acquainted
with the language and customs of the place (e.g. a banker), in order
that 'misunderstandings' may be prevented. For single travellers a
verbal agreement with regard to attendance, linen, boot-cleaning,
stoves and carpets in winter, a receptacle for fuel, and other details
will generally suffice.
The popular idea of Cleanliness in Italy is behind the age. The
traveller will have little to complain of in the first-class hotels or even
the better second-class hotels; but those who quit the beaten track must
be prepared for privations. Iron bedsteads should if possible be selected,
as they are less likely to harbour the enemies of repose. Insect-powder
(polvere insetticida or contro gli insetti) or camphor somewhat repels their
advances. The zanzare, or gnats, are a source of great annoyance, and often
of suffering, during the summer and autumn-months. Windows should
always be closed before a light is introduced into the room. Light muslin
curtains (zanzariera round the beds, masks for the face, and gloves are
employed to ward off the attacks of these pertinacious intruderà. The
burning of insect powder over a spirit-lamp is also recommended, and
pastilles may be purchased at the principal chemists' for the same purpose.
A weak dilution of carbolic acid in water is efficacious in allaying the dis¬
comfort occasioned by the bites.
A list of the Italian names of the ordinary articles of underclothing
(la biancheria) will be useful in dealing with the washerwoman: Shirt
(linen, cotton, woollen), la camicia (ditela, di cotone, di lana) ; night- shirt,
camicia di notte; collar, il solino, il colletto; cuff, il polsino; drawers, le
mutande; woollen undershirt, una flanella or giuba di flanella; petticoat,
la sottana; stocking, la calza; sock, la calzetta; handkerchief (silk), il fazzo¬
letto (di seta). To give out to wash, dare a bucato (di bucato, newly
washed); washing-list, la nota! washerwoman, laundress, la stiratrice, la
lavandaia; buttons, i bottoni.
IX. Restaurants, Cafés, Osterie.
Restaurants of the first class (Ristoranti) in the larger towns
resemble those ofFrance or Germany, and have similarly high charges.
— The more strictly national Trattorie are chiefly frequented by
Italians and gentlemen travelling alone, but those of a better class
Baedeker. Italy IL llth Edition. b