nines more accessible to travellers. Cool and clear weather should
if possible be selected, and the scirocco carefully avoided. The
height of summer is of course unsuitable for tours of this kind.
Riding. A horse (cavallo) or donkey (asino, somaro), between
which the difference of expense is slight, will often be found service-
able, especially in mountainous districts. The attendant (pedone)
acts as a guide for the time being. Animals are provided for the use
of ladies also. The charges are moderate. A previous bargain should
be made, tutto compreso, a gratuity being added if the traveller is
satisfied. The donkey-drivers have an unpleasant habit of inciting
their animals to the top of their speed when passing through a town
or village, and it is as well to warn them beforehand that their 'mancia'
will surfer if they do not go quietly through the streets.
Vili. Hotels. Private Apartments.
First Class Hotels , comfortably fitted up , are to he found at
Rome, Siena, Perugia, and at most of the principal resorts of tra¬
vellers in Central Italy. Several of those at Rome are kept by Swiss
and German landlords. Room 21/2-5fr., bougie 75e. to 1 fr., atten-
dance 1 fr. (exclusive of the 'facchino' and porter), table d'hóte
4-6 fr., and so on. The charge for dinner does not generally include
wine, which is comparatively dear. For a prolonged stay an agree¬
ment may generally he made for pension at a more moderate rate.
Visitors are expected to dine at the table d'hóte ; otherwise the charge
for rooms is apt to he raised. Luncheon, however, need not be
ordered at the hotel. Meals served at other than the usuai hours,
or in the traveller's private rooms, are, of course, considerably dearer.
The charge for the use of the hotel-omnibus from the station to the
hotel is so high (1-1 !/2 fr.), that it is often cheaper to take a cab.
It is also easier for those who use a cab (definite bargain as to fare)
to proceed to another hotel, should they dislike the rooms offered to
them. Rooms on the ground-floor should be avoided.
The Second Class Hotels, thoroughly Italian in their arrange-
ments, are much cheaper, but they are rarely very clean or comfort-
able : R. 172-2, L. 72. A- 72 fr- There is no table d'hóte, but in the
larger towns there is generally a trattoria (p. xvii) conneetéd with the
house. Morning coffee is usually taken at a café (p. xix) and not at
the inn. These inns will often be found convenient and economical
by the voyageur en garcon, and the better houses of this class may
even be visited by ladies ; but the new-comer should, perhaps, fre-
quent first-class hotels only. It is quite customary to make enquiries
as to charges beforehand. A dinner, for example at 2-3 fr. may
be stipulated for, and in bargaining as to the charge for a room the
'servizio e candela' should not be forgotten. If no previous agree¬
ment has been made an extortionate bill is not uncommon. The
landlord is generally prepared to have his first offer beaten down by
the traveller, and in that expectation usually asks more at first than