or two hours may be accomplished before breakfast. It is désirable
to reach the end of the day's walk about midday, but if that is not
practicable, rest should be taken during the hottest hours (12-3)
and the journey afterwards continued till 5 or 6 p. m., when a sub-
stantial meal (evening table d'hôte at the principal hôtels) may be
partaken of. The traveller's own feelings will best dictate the hour
for retiring to rest.
The traveller's ambition often exceeds his powers of endurance,
and if his strength be once over-taxed, he will sometimes be in-
capacitated altogether for several days. At the outset, therefore, the
walker's performances should be moderate, and even when he is in
good training, they should rarely exceed 10 hrs. a day. When a
mountain has to be breasted, the pedestrian should avoid 'spurts',
and pursue the 'even ténor of his way' at a steady and moderate
pace ('chi va piano va sano; chi va sano va lontano'). As another
golden maxim for his guidance, the traveller should remember that
when fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases.
The traveller is cautioned against sleeping in chalets, unless
absolutely necessary. As a rule the night previous to a mountain-
expedition should be spent either at an inn or at one of the club-
huts which the French Alpine Clubs hâve recently erected for the
convenience of travellers. In the latter case enquiry should be
made beforehand as to the condition and accommodation of the hut,
and whether it is already occupied by a previo is party or not. The
convenience of arriving betimes at a hôtel, so as to secure good
rooms, etc., is well worth an extra effort on the march.
Over ail the movements of the pedestrian, the weather holds des-
potic sway. The barometer and weather-wise natives should be con-
sulted when an opportunity offers. The blowing down of the wind
from the mountains into the valleys in the evening, the melting away
of the clouds, the fall of fresh snow on the mountains, and the ascent
of the cattle to the higher parts of their pasture, are ail signs of fine
weather. On the other hand, it is a bad sign if the distant mountains
are dark blue in colour and very distinct in outline, if the wind blows
up the mountains, and if the dust rises in eddies on the roads. West
winds also usually bring rain.
It may be added that the particulars in the handbook as to the
mountain-expeditions make no claim to absolute and invariable ex¬
actitude. The weather, the state of the snow, etc., no less than the
différent inclinations and capacities of travellers, must be taken into
account as variable factors.
Guides. For ail important mountain-expeditions guides are in¬
dispensable, except where the contrary is expressly stated; and, above
ail, a glacier should never be crossed without an experienced guide.
Good guides are unfortunately rare ; but they are to be found at ail
the principal tourist-centres among the Pyrénées, such as Cauterets,
Gavarnie, Eaux-Bonnes, and Bagnères-de-Luchon. Most of the